A Kutch Weekend | Rann, Bhuj, and Dholavira

Even though Gujarat is practically next door, I never made it here until recently. It was two years ago that I visited Gir, my first time in Gujarat, and this year, I visited Kutch. November is a great time to visit Kutch, with the Rann Utsav in full swing, but that’s not where I ended up going on this long weekend Kutch trip.

The fascinating thing about Kutch is that it’s not on the mainstream tourist radar—at least, not yet. This means there’s not much information online to help plan your visit. Generic itineraries exist, but what if you’re going solo? How do you figure out drivers, hotels, or where to stay? I found this lack of information challenging and an opportunity because planning felt like solving a puzzle.

Once there, reality exceeded my expectations. At first, I kept my “big city defences” up, ready to haggle or dodge scams. But guess what? Unnecessary. Instead of trying to fleece me, the locals were more interested in flaunting their breathtaking landscapes and intricate crafts. And wow, Kutch itself? It’s like stepping into a dream. When the endless salt desert isn’t hypnotizing you, the locals’ vibrant clothes—reds, yellows, pinks, and shiny mirror work—turn the scene into a living kaleidoscope.

What struck me even more was how Kutch has risen from the ashes of the devastating 2001 earthquake. That tragedy became a turning point, spurring resilience and reinvention. Whole artist communities thrived, towns were rebuilt with smarter, more thoughtful architecture, and the people’s spirit grew stronger than ever. Few places showcase this level of creativity and grit.

But of course, not everything is perfect. Locals mentioned, with resigned shakes of their heads, that police and political corruption are widespread, along with issues of emigration. However, despite these shortcomings, probably inevitable in this country, Kutch remains a living testament to resilience, artistry, and human warmth. And for now, it feels like one of India’s best-kept secrets.

The Basics

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About Kutch

The Indian state of Gujarat is divided into three primary regions: Saurashtra, Kutch, and South Gujarat. Kutch is Gujarat’s largest district, encompassing beautiful deserts and coastal areas. It is best known for the Great Rann of Kutch, a salt marsh that stretches across the India-Pakistan border. Kutch is also famous for its many handicraft villages specialising in unique crafts such as Ajrakh, Bandhani, and Rogan. Kutch is home to the Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary, which boasts rare species such as the flamingo and the Indian wild ass.

Major Cities in Kutch are – Bhuj: The cultural and administrative centre. It is the usual base to explore all the nearby attractions, including the Great Rann of Kutch | Gandhidham: an industrial hub, the largest and most populous city in the Kutch district, developed after India’s independence for Sindhi refugees from Pakistan | Mundra: A key trade and industrial city with Mundra Port, the largest private port in India | Mandvi: A coastal town known for its beaches, shipbuilding yards, and the Vijay Vilas Palace | Anjar: One of the oldest towns in Kutch, known for its traditional fairs, temples, and the craftsmanship of artisans, particularly metal and woodwork, | and Dholavira: An ancient Indus Valley Civilization site located on Khadir Bet island in the Rann of Kutch.

Salt from Kutch makes up nearly 70% of India’s total sea salt production. But the region offers more than just salt—companies like Agrocel extract chemicals such as bromine, much of which is exported to markets like China. Beyond this, Adani is making its mark by developing one of the largest solar and wind energy projects in the world, located in Khavda near the India-Pakistan border. This move has sparked curiosity among locals, who wonder why such a large project is situated so near the border. And just today, I read an NYT article on a corruption case slapped on Gautam Adani on allegations of bribery to set up said plant. Industrial growth and intrigue seem to go hand-in-hand in Kutch these days.

Bhuj

Bhuj is a historic city in the Kutch district of Gujarat and serves as its district headquarters. It is a gateway to the Great Rann of Kutch, a seasonal salt marsh, and a focal point during the Rann Utsav, the annual cultural festival. Key sightseeing points in Bhuj are Prag Mahal: A 19th-century palace with Italian Gothic architecture | Aina Mahal: The “Palace of Mirrors,” known for intricate mirror work and Indo-European style architecture | Swaminarayan Temple: A grand Hindu temple | and the Kutch Museum: one of the oldest museums in Gujarat, showcasing local artefacts, textiles, and sculptures, | along with several handcraft markets dotted along the city.

The Salty Marshlands

The Rann of Kutch is a vast salt marsh spanning the border between India and Pakistan, primarily located in Gujarat’s Kutch district, with a small part extending into Pakistan’s Sindh province. The Rann extends about 300 km from east to west and 150 km from north to south. Divided into the Great and Little Rann, it was once part of the Arabian Sea, which receded over time, leaving behind salt deposits that formed the marsh. The Luni River once flowed into the Rann, but as the area dried up, the river was cut off from the Arabian Sea. The Great Rann is the larger section, stretching east to west, bordered by the Thar Desert to the north and the Kutch Hills to the south. The Little Rann lies southeast, extending towards the Gulf of Kutch. The Rann has desert on one side and the sea on the other, which enables various ecosystems, including mangroves and desert vegetation. (Source: Press Institute, Vibrant Kutch)

The region’s landscape was shaped by tectonic activity that cut off the sea, leaving behind the salt marsh environment we see today. I had an irrational notion that the salt flats might collapse beneath me and I’d end up sinking. After some research, I found that while the salt crust can be soft in certain areas, it’s generally solid enough to walk or drive on. However, in some places, the underlying soil may contain a mix of clay and salt, with water potentially underneath if the salt crust is thin or cracked. This isn’t typical, though, and the flats are mostly firm with a thick, stable salt layer.

The 2001 Bhuj Earthquake

The 2001 Bhuj earthquake was a devastating event that struck Gujarat on January 26, India’s Republic Day. Measuring 7.7 on the Richter scale, it lasted for about two minutes but caused widespread destruction. Over 20,000 lives were lost, nearly 170,000 were injured, and countless others were left homeless. Bhuj and nearby towns like Anjar and Bhachau were almost flattened, with historic buildings and infrastructure heavily damaged. Relief efforts were massive, involving both national and international teams. The disaster also prompted significant policy changes in disaster management across India. It serves as a sombre reminder of the region’s vulnerability but also a story of resilience, as Bhuj and Kutch have since rebuilt. The artist communities, along with the rebuilt villages and roads, stand as a testament to the region’s reinvention after the earthquake.

According to legend, the Earth rests on the head of a cosmic snake. When the first king of Bhuj chose a spot for his empire, he hammered a nail into the ground to secure the Earth on the snake’s head. A courtier, questioning the location, planted doubt in the king’s mind. As the king removed the nail, the ground began to bleed, revealing that he had indeed struck the snake’s head. In haste, the king hammered the nail back deeper, unaware that the snake had moved, fixing the Earth onto its tail instead. Locals believe the snake’s restless movement now causes the frequent earthquakes in Bhuj, weaving mythology into the region’s seismic activity.

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Best Time to Go

November to February is a good time to visit when the weather is balmy and sightseeing is possible without getting burnt to the bone. A full moon night is a good option to catch the salt desert in its full photography-pretty glory. The Rann festival also takes place during November and February. It might be a good idea to avoid the monsoon months and slightly afterwards when the salt plains remain wet and do not allow good conditions to walk on.

I went in mid-November on a full moon weekend. The weather was erratic, as low as 20 degrees quickly moving to over 30 degrees within a matter of hours. The sun shines scorchingly bright, and so it’s advisable to cover up in the desert.

The area is extremely hot, with temperatures reaching up to 49.5°C in summer and dropping below 0°C in winter.

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How to See

I hired an AC car and driver in Kutch for days 1 and 2 of the weekend itinerary at a rate of INR 4000 per day. Taxi operators in the area typically charge between INR 3500-5000 per day depending on the type of car. My driver was Hujefa (+91 99138 41320). Alternatively, you can contact Kuldip from Kutch Adventures India for trip planning. He was extremely helpful in organizing my trip, providing insights that most tourists might miss.

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The Itinerary

Day 1: Bhuj – Nirona Village – Road to Heaven – Dholavira

I flew into Bhuj Airport from Mumbai with Alliance Air. The flight was on an ATR, and while the onward journey was delayed by an hour, we returned on schedule. It was a simple, no-frills flight that cost me INR 10,000 (USD 110) for a round-trip ticket. There was no food served on board, but it got me where I needed to go.

Nirona

Nirona Village, located an hour from Bhuj (40 km Northwest), is a hidden gem famous for its unique crafts, especially rogan painting, an ancient art brought over from Iran 300 years ago. Practised by just one family in India, the Khatris, this oil-based painting technique produces stunning works, with the “Tree of Life” being the most famous (INR 2500 upwards for a canvas).

The village immediately struck me as incredibly clean—well, except for the occasional cow dung on the road, which, while biodegradable, certainly has its smell. And speaking of cows, Kutch has more cows than any other place in India, and they’re everywhere. These aren’t the typical Indian cows who act clueless; the Kankrej breed is unique, completely indifferent to humans and other inconveniences, sitting in the middle of the road as if they own it. There’s a certain nonchalance about them as if they know they’re the lifeblood of the region and can do as they please.

I had a couple of funny (and slightly scary) encounters with these cows. In Dholavira, a cow was being milked outside my homestay, and when the gate finally opened, it dashed past us like a racehorse. In Bhuj, we got stuck in traffic in the old market, and a cow just barged through, brushing past cars and people, grunting like a motorbike. It was astonishing, and certainly hilarious to witness.

Nirona is a village where almost every house has an artisan. They proudly showcase their crafts, from lacquerware to bell-making, fabric printing and embroidery, without any pressure to buy. Though they might have been quoting me ‘tourist-special’ prices, I was happy to pay up because everything was so worth it. It was also refreshing to see a community intent on keeping its heritage alive and with such pride and passion.

I met an Ajrakh artisan who, while effortlessly pressing a wooden block onto yellow silk fabric without breaking a sweat or pausing for a breath, shared a surprising local practice with me. He explained that due to a shortage of women in Kutch, it’s common for men to travel to West Bengal to marry young girls, sometimes as young as 14. The parents, often struggling financially, see it as a chance for their daughters to have a better life. The man I spoke to had a wife who had been suffering from a mental illness for a decade, and he was looking for a second wife to help with the household. He came across as kind and gentle, and in his situation, it might have offered a better life for the girl he planned to marry. While this practice seemed accepted in the area, it left me feeling uneasy and reminded me of how I should not take my privileges for granted in this country.

Overall, Nirona Village offered a truly authentic experience. Unlike more commercialized artisan villages or artisan compounds such as Kalaraksha or Arjun (I enjoyed visiting them as well but not as much), this one felt real, with its quiet pride in craftsmanship and traditions. It’s a visit I’ll cherish.

Road to Heaven

The Road to Heaven stretch, connecting Khavda to Dholavira in Kutch, is 31 kilometres of pure bliss on the road. The landscape shifts from grassy marshlands to salty ones on either side, with very few cars or tourists (at least for now) along this stretch. It’s a pleasure to drive in and a must-do. The salt on both sides sometimes looks like ice, much like the Icefields drive in Canada I did back in 2022. There are plenty of photo stops along the way; you can also dress in local costume (INR 100 to rent) and get cheesy photographs clicked. This road was built fairly recently. Before this, getting to Dholavira from Bhuj was a lengthy journey, taking over five to six hours along a winding route.

Dholavira

Dholavira village, located on Khadir Bet in the Kutch district, lies near the famous Harappan archaeological site of the same name. The village has a small population, primarily engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry, adapting to the harsh, arid conditions of the region. The residents are mainly from local tribal communities and live in traditional mud houses. With the recognition of the archaeological site as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, tourism has brought more visibility to the village, creating opportunities for handicraft sales and cultural exchanges. But overall, it’s rustic, unspoiled, and reflects the essence of a typical Indian village.

Dholavira is located on the Tropic of Cancer and you can take a picture with a board that announces this.

I stayed overnight at Dholavira.

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Day 2: Dholavira Harappa Site – Dhordo – Hodka – Bhuj

Dholavira – A UNESCO World Heritage Site

About

The 5,000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site of Dholavira, a Harappan city, is a remarkable testament to the Indus Valley Civilization’s ingenuity. Among the five largest sites of this ancient civilization, Dholavira was built with advanced water management systems, including check dams to capture water from the Mansar and Manhar rivers.

The city was meticulously planned, with three distinct zones: the Citadel for the elite (subdivided into the Castle and Bailey), the Middle Town for merchants and artisans engaged in bead-making, and the Lower Town for labourers. Initially a small fortified settlement around 3000 BCE, the city expanded to its full layout by 2600 BCE. Measuring 771 meters, it was encircled by fortification walls and interconnected reservoirs, five of which are still accessible today. One of the unique features of Dholavira is the sophisticated water conservation system of channels and reservoirs, the earliest found anywhere in the world, built completely of stone.

A large ceremonial ground separated the Castle and Middle Town, with gates allowing controlled movement while maintaining the strict social hierarchy i.e. people of a town and strata could only enter and exit through a particular gate. The upper town sat higher than the middle town, which in turn was elevated above the lower town, reflecting their occupants’ status.

To date, only 20% of the site has been excavated (1990–2005), during which local labourers were paid ₹22 a day, a rate now exceeding ₹400.

For now, visiting the site is free. Once the international museum under construction is completed, entry will likely start at the Lower Town, passing through the Middle Town, and ending at the Citadel. Many artefacts originally moved to the National Museum in New Delhi will be returned to Dholavira to be displayed in the new museum.

The site is open from sunrise to sunset, with guides available at the registration desk for ₹300–₹500, depending on rush and your bargaining power. Visiting the museum (open 10 AM–6 PM) first is recommended. It features a concise 7-minute film that provides essential context, though hiring a guide, like Ishwar (+91 9537696667; whose brother runs the nearby tea stall), is well worth it. Note that most guides speak only Hindi.

During our visit, we entered through the West Gate, moved to the East Gate, and exited via the North Gate, the largest and most elaborate. It apparently had a huge sign above it, announcing the name of the city, with a script no one has been able to decipher. The signboard has been removed and is being preserved. Of the site’s 17 gates, the North and East Gates of the Castle stand out for their limestone pillars. The cemetery, located southwest of the settlement, lies outside the main fortifications.

Earthquakes have repeatedly affected Dholavira, including a particularly severe one around 2600 BCE, and therefore, the construction offers an insight into how the locals prepared for it.The site features seven layers of construction, each built on top of the last, representing seven generations of residents spanning centuries. Fascinating! Goosebumps all the way!

An interesting side-story

My homestay (Rajal Homestay) in Dholavira was less than perfect. The room featured unwashed sheets and a grimy toilet colonized by four giant lizards with no plans to leave. Outside, a quartet of cows mooed at ungodly hours like a bovine acapella group. But the saving grace of this place was the lady of the house.

She was a fantastic cook and served me a hearty Kathiawadi dinner—ghee-drenched rotli, khichdi, local curries, and the staple chaas. Over dinner, she shared a captivating story about her father-in-law, Shambhudan Gadhvi, a man who could easily have been the Indiana Jones of Kutch.

Back in the 1960s, Shambhudan, then a master clerk supervising drought relief work, stumbled upon artefacts from the Harappan site. When labourers brought him seals, beads, and pottery fragments, he was so thrilled that he offered INR 10 per artefact—an impressive sum in those days. With a growing collection, he headed to Delhi to show the treasures to someone at the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) (I didn’t catch the name. But read on…).

The official was reportedly ecstatic, hugged him, and promised to bring this to a happy fruition. Soon, an entire ASI team arrived to excavate the site. But despite his pivotal role, Shambhudan received no recognition. The official credit for discovering Dholavira went to J. P. Joshi. Shambhudan’s name was relegated to village whispers and family dinner tales like the one I was hearing.

The next morning, I met the man himself. Shambhudan Gadhvi, now elderly and frail, leaned heavily on his walking stick, his hunched figure coughing softly in the courtyard. His heavy heart was palpable, weighed down by decades of unacknowledged contribution. This was the man who first uncovered a piece of history and yet was denied his place in it.

Dholavira is officially credited as the fifth-largest Harappan site, discovered by J.P. Joshi. But to the people here—and me now—it will be Shambhudan Gadhvi’s find. His story, much like my stay, was a mix of discomfort, warmth, and unforgettable moments.

How to Go

The drive from Bhuj to Dholavira takes about four hours. You can rent a car from Bhuj for INR 4,000 for a round trip. I stayed overnight which was a good idea as I explored the UNESCO world heritage site at leisure the next day, followed by a fleeting visit to see the preparation for the Rann Utsav in Dhordho.

Next to the UNESCO site is the Fossil Park, which has free entry and is open from 10 AM to 6 PM, though we were able to visit even after hours. And while we watched the sunset at the Dattatreya Temple Sunset Point, I realized that the Fossil Park might have been a better choice. The park was serene, with no crowds, and offered a stunning view: a calm mini-lake with a gaggle of excitable little birds over it, beautiful greenery, and a peek of the vast salt plains on the side.

The Fossil Park is supposed to be a major paleontological site, dating back around 200 million years to the early Jurassic period. However, all I came across were some fossilized wood and impressions of prehistoric plants, which were cool, don’t get me wrong. There were models of ichthyosaurs, plesiosaurs, giant squid, etc., placed around the park, but as for where the actual fossils were kept—no idea. Seeing the real fossils would’ve been a lot cooler.

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Kala Dungar (Black Hill)

Kala Dungar is the highest point in the region, offering panoramic views of the Great Rann of Kutch. The hill is home to the ancient Dattatreya Temple, which is over 400 years old. According to local legend, Lord Dattatreya once lived here and fed jackals with his own body. As a result, it has become a tradition for the temple priests to offer prasad to the jackals, particularly during sunrise and sunset. However, due to increased tourism, the jackals are less likely to appear now than in the past. I wasn’t impressed by my visit and feel it can be skipped. The views were not much to speak about and it was super crowded. It might be a better idea to time your visit with sunset or sunrise, rather than visit mid-day.

On the way up the hill, one of the intriguing natural phenomena is the ‘Magnetic Point,’ where cars appear to move uphill on their own due to a magnetic anomaly.

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Dhordo

The Rann Utsav takes place in Dhordo which is a small village in the Kutch district, known for its white salt desert, the Rann of Kutch. It is located about 80 kilometres (50 miles) from Bhuj Airport.

The Rann Utsav has become synonymous with Kutch tourism, drawing visitors to the famed white salt desert. This festival brought the Rann of Kutch into the spotlight and introduced it to mainstream travel itineraries. While the festival offers a visually grand and cultural experience, it leans heavily on commercialization, with curated performances, glamping setups, and high-ticket entertainment. For curious first-time visitors, the festival can be a convenient way to experience the salt desert. However, for travellers seeking an authentic connection with Kutch’s heritage or landscapes, it might feel engineered and overpriced.

To enter the White Rann of Kutch area in Dhordo, you need a permit, which costs INR 100 per person and INR 50 for a 4-wheeler. The permit is issued at a counter near the entrance, where BSF personnel may check it. My driver mentioned that permit checks are inconsistent, but given the low cost, it’s better to get one. The permit is also available online. But honestly, get it on site if you want it; there wasn’t any crowd when I went. The permit counter is open from 6 AM to 6 PM.

The main draw here is a camel or buggy ride into the White Rann. However, if you’ve seen similar landscapes before, like those in Road to Heaven, it might not feel as unique. Historically, this location introduced the White Rann to the world, so some visitors (like yours truly) come for its significance.

There are two resorts near the entrance, while the main Rann Utsav Festival site is a short distance away. Entry to the festival grounds is restricted, but we managed to get in through a connection and toured it briefly in the afternoon. The area is said to come alive at night with music, food stalls, shops, and buzzing streets. However, during our visit, most of the site was under construction, appearing dusty and overly commercialized. It didn’t appeal to me.

If you’re with a large group or family looking for a simple, fun outing without much planning, this place could work as a staycation destination. I found the visit underwhelming. The whole visit took 1.5 to 2 hours, and I was ready to leave much sooner.

This article sheds light on the remarkable success of Rann Utsav. My driver shared many details during our journey, though much of this information is not widely known outside of Kutch.

On your way back to Bhuj, stop to have fresh khoya/mava at Bhindiyari (INR 40 for 100 gm). Yum, yum.

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Hodka

Looking back, I think I could have stayed in Hodka. It seemed like a more developed village compared to Dholavira—more commercial, with better stay options, including the charming mud bhungas (traditional Kutchi huts). Hodka, located in the Banni Grasslands of Kutch, Gujarat, is known for its artisan community and rich cultural heritage. The village is believed to have been founded by the Halepotra clan, who were traditionally cattle herders. With a population of around 2,000, it’s home to diverse communities like the Meghwals and Muslim pastoralists, each adding to its unique culture. Hodka is famous for crafts like embroidery, leatherwork, and mirrorwork.

Hodka to Bhuj takes about an hour or so. I stayed overnight in Buj.

On the way back to Bhuj from Hodko, you pass Palara Jail. My driver shared a rather ironic story: the former IAS officer Pradeep Sharma, who inaugurated the jail, is now one of its residents. Cases upon cases are being slapped on him and he is unable to get out, but at the time of writing this he was granted anticipatory bail by the Supreme Court, so let’s see what happens next. There’s a bhajia stall right by the jail, run by the inmates. They fry and sell bhajias throughout the day before heading back inside. I was curious to see this unique setup, but unfortunately, the stall was closed when I passed by. Missed my chance at Jailhouse Snacks!

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Day 3: Bhuj

Bhuj is a vibrant little town, buzzing with activity, bumpy roads, wandering cows, and warm, welcoming locals. It’s safe and cheap, and while you might get a few stares, they seem rooted in genuine curiosity rather than anything unfriendly.

Bhuj was founded in 1510 by Rao Hamirji, a ruler of the Jadeja dynasty, which governed Kutch for centuries. The city became the capital under Rao Khengarji I in 1549, marking its rise as a political and cultural centre. Bhuj was fortified with thick stone walls, measuring over 10 meters in height, and dotted with gates like Bhid Gate, Madhapar Gate, and Sarpat Gate, designed to protect the city from invasions. These gates were ornately carved, reflecting the architectural style of the era. You can see a few of them even today.

The Jadejas were Rajput rulers who claimed descent from Lord Krishna and were known for their patronage of art, architecture, and trade. The royal family established Bhuj as a hub of craftsmanship, with textiles, silverware, and buildings like Prag Mahal and Aina Mahal showcasing their influence. Despite the loss of royal power, their legacy continues in Bhuj’s culture and landmarks.

Aina Mahal

If you’re pressed for time and energy, as I was, and can only visit one place in Bhuj, make it Aina Mahal. It encapsulates the essence of the region, offering a unique blend of history, art, and architecture that makes it a must-see.

The lesson I took away was that Aina Mahal was a testament to the resilience and determination of a dogged artist pursuing his dreams. Built in 1750 under the rule of King Lakhpatji, the palace owes its grandeur to Ramsinh Malam, a visionary craftsman trained in Europe for 17 years. Upon returning to India, Malam struggled to find opportunities to showcase his skills. Undeterred, he approached the royal court in Bhuj, where King Lakhpatji recognized his potential and commissioned the palace.

Aina Mahal, also called the Hall of Mirrors, is an architectural marvel blending Indo-European styles. To bring his vision to life, Malam established a glass factory in Mandvi and a tile factory in Bhuj, creating intricate materials locally. Venetian glass chandeliers were imported from Belgium to complement the design, while the floors featured Delft-inspired tiles crafted in Bhuj.

The palace’s centrepiece is its lavish entertainment room decorated with exquisite, albeit mismatched art, glittering Belgian chandeliers, and intricately embroidered divans. At the centre is a marble throne where the king sat, while musicians played around him. Surrounded by a moat filled with water and fountains, the room stayed naturally cool—a luxury air-conditioner of its time. The lamps were filled with coloured water, topped with oil and a burning wick, creating an all-round glow. Combine this with the coloured lights bouncing off the water, the gentle hum of fountains, and the music drifting through the air, and you’ve got yourself a royal sensory overload.

The entry fee is INR 30 + INR 100 for photography. Timings: 9 AM – 12 PM | 3 PM – 6 PM. Most of Bhuj rests in the afternoon because of the intense heat. So double-check the timings before you go anywhere.

Prag Mahal and Aina Mahal are located in the same compound, which also features three stylish boutiques where you can shop for well-designed dresses and fabrics.

Prag Mahal

Prag Mahal is a 19th-century palace in Bhuj, built in the Indo-Saracenic style that combines Indian and European elements. It has carvings, pillars, and domes. The palace includes a museum with artefacts such as royal regalia, weapons, and paintings. Visitors can also view the city of Bhuj and its surroundings from the palace.

The entry fee is INR 70 + INR 100 for camera/ photography. Open 9 AM to 6 PM.

Hamirsar Lake

Hamirsar Lake, a 450-year-old man-made waterbody, is named after Rao Hamir, the founder of Bhuj. It was constructed during the reign of Rao Khengarji I of the Jadeja dynasty, with canals built to supply water to the lake and meet the needs of the arid Kutch region. The lake played a vital role in Bhuj’s development and remains a central gathering place. Evenings bring fairs, locals chatting on the steps, couples walking along the promenade, and food carts offering snacks.

An interesting anecdote: when the Hamirsar Lake overflows, it signifies abundant rainfall and brings immense joy to locals. This occasion is marked by a public holiday declared by the district administration. Festivities include traditional rituals performed by the royal family and local officials.

Classic small-town charm at its best.

Swaminarayan Temple

The Swaminarayan Temple in Bhuj is an important Hindu religious site and a place of worship for followers of the Swaminarayan Sampraday. It was first built in 1823 by Swaminarayan’s devotees but was destroyed in the 2001 earthquake. The temple was later rebuilt to the magnificent edifice one sees today. Come here in the evenings to enjoy the evening aarti and to people-watch.

Chhatardi Bhuj

Chhatardi in Bhuj, Gujarat, is a complex of royal cenotaphs built by the Jadeja Rajputs to commemorate their deceased rulers. These structures, dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, served as cremation sites for the royal family. They reflect a blend of Rajputana and local architectural styles, with intricate carvings and designs. Many of these structures were damaged during the 2001 Bhuj earthquake, but their ruins still offer insight into the region’s royal heritage. The cenotaphs are built with red sandstone, showcasing intricate carvings, domes, and arches.

Kutch Museum and Earthquake Museum

While I went to neither, because I wasn’t feeling too well and was short on time, I was recommended to visit them by locals. The Kutch Museum in Bhuj, established in 1877 by Maharao Khengarji III, is the oldest in Gujarat. It houses a diverse collection of artefacts, including ancient Kshatrapa inscriptions, tribal artefacts, textiles, coins, and weapons, offering insight into Kutch’s rich heritage. Nearby, the Bhuj Earthquake Memorial Museum (also known as the Smriti Van Earthquake Museum) commemorates the 2001 Gujarat earthquake. Built on Bhujia Hill, it uses interactive displays and galleries to depict the disaster’s impact, the resilience of the people, and the rebuilding efforts. Together, these museums provide a blend of historical, cultural, and contemporary narratives of Kutch.

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Shopping

• Hira Laxmi Craft Park, Bhujodi: This sprawling complex allows you to witness the magic of handicraft creation firsthand. Watch skilled artisans demonstrate traditional techniques like block printing, embroidery, and lacquerware. You can also purchase authentic artefacts directly from the artists. An auto from Bhuj will take you there and back for INR 800-1000 (with waiting charges).
• Located about 4 km beyond Bhujodi, in the Anjar direction, Khamir is a space for the engagement and development of Kutch’s craft heritage. You can also shop from them at khamir.org.
• Ajrakhpur, located 15 kilometres from Bhuj and 8 km from Bhujodi, is a town specialising in Ajrakh block printing, a traditional craft with roots in the Indus Valley Civilization. The Muslim Khatri community has preserved this centuries-old, entirely handcrafted technique, inspired by natural colors and patterns. Originally practised in the village of Dhamadka, the community relocated to Ajrakhpur after the 2001 Bhuj earthquake. You can likely cover Bhujodi, Ajrakhpur, and Khamir together.
• In Bhuj, the local market offers a wide range of crafts. I shopped at Jayshree on Darbar Gadh Road in Saraf Bazar. Bhoomi is another popular store that comes highly recommended by locals.
• Bhuj Haat: This bustling market is your one-stop shop for all things Kutch. Pick up Bandhani (tie-and-dye) fabrics, Ajrakh prints, embroidered shawls, and Kutchi silk sarees. Available are also Silver jewellery, brass utensils, intricate metal sculptures, carved furniture, camel hide bags, and clay pottery.
• In addition, you can pick up stuff as you go from village to village. Nirona, Khavda, and Bhirandiyara are good places to do so. Ask your driver to guide you.

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