48 hours in Varanasi evening arati

48 hours in Varanasi | How to see the city like a local

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48 hours in Varanasi | How to see the best of the city in two days Varanasi or Banaras is ALL Indian clichés rolled into a single city: snake charmers, spaced-out sadhus, sandalwood-and-ash smeared pilgrims, large families with bawling children, muddy streets and spit-splattered walls, cycle-rickshaws and honking cars… but […]

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48 hours in Hampi Karnataka | The perfect itinerary

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Why Hampi? Hampi, in the southern Indian state of Karnataka, is an immensely underrated heritage town.  It is drop-dead beautiful and awe-inspiring. Every nook has an architectural wonder, not unlike Rome or Pompeii, with scores of stories etched on its stone walls. The excavations are ongoing, and I can only […]

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Kumarakom: Top experiences

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We were in Kumarakom (Kerala) this rain-soaked weekend and even as I write this—from a staid, cloistered hotel room—I yearn to be back…to feel the silky-soft green of the leaves, marvel at the nodding lotus stalks and undulating undergrowth on the backwaters, protest at the resounding scream of the Cicadas, savor […]

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