The Uttarakhand Road Trip I did back in 2020 was one of the most memorable in my life. Not only did it provide reprieve in a tough year (2020 people!) but I’d never known such stunning landscapes existed, in such remote towns, that were cosy and welcoming even in winter. What an experience!!
Here is how I did a 3 days Uttarakhand Road Trip with Rishikesh as a base. The entire 10 days itinerary is here. This itinerary is an extract, which has 2 days in Rishikesh and 3 days in the Garhwal Hills.
Explore the best of Uttarakhand HERE.
Hiring a Bike in Rishikesh
Bikes can be hired for INR 500/day (Vespa) to INR 1000/day (Royal Enfield 350-500CC). Bikes can be hired from the shops along Lakshman Jhula or via rentrip.
In Rishikesh
Rishikesh lies 25 km North of Haridwar and 43 km southeast of Dehradun. It is a pilgrimage town and a holy place for the Hindus. Legends state that Lord Rama performed penance here for killing Ravana, the asura king of Lanka; and Lakshman, his younger brother, crossed the river Ganges, using two jute ropes at the point where the ‘Lakshman Jhula‘ stands today.
There are in fact three bridges in Rishikesh named after the characters of Ramayana: Lakshman Jhula is the most famous and iconic, followed by Ram Jhula; both are iron suspension bridges (which sort of shake 🥴 when you walk over them). There’s also a modern Sita Jhula which is open to only two-wheelers.
Where to Stay
Kunwar Residency: We loved this property. If you can, book the Deluxe Premium room to stay a stone’s throw (quite literally) away from Lakshman Jhula. Many balmy evenings were spent, including New Year’s Eve, on the couch outside the room, basking in the great weather and admiring the glittering bridge. We exchanged new year’s wishes with the sleepy cows and excited revellers on the bridge when the clock struck 12.
Other options that looked good along the road are Holy Water by Ganga Kinare (fancy!) and Antalya.
Although Tapovan (where Lakshman Jhula is) is where most of the action is, tourists also prefer to camp by the river or stay in an ashram. the former gives an opportunity to indulge in more water sports, stargaze and live close to nature. The latter allows time and space for physical and mental well-being. Both are inexpensive and exciting alternatives I will surely try the next time.
What to Do
White Water Rafting
While the elderly visit Rishikesh for its religious significance, youngsters associate Rishikesh with white water rafting and other adventure sports (Flying Fox, bungee and cliff jumping among others). The Ganga River is especially good for white water rafting at Rishikesh because it is located at the foothills of the Himalayas and the current is just right.
Although white water rafting providers are dime-a-dozen around Ram and Lakshman Jhula, and you can go with any one of them without a hassle, Red Chilli Adventures are professional providers you should check out. They operate a 25km rafting trail that runs in the morning (10 rapids, INR 1500 per head) and a 16km trail that runs more often (7 rapids, INR 1000 per head). For the rest, the usual cost is ~INR 500 for a 16km trail (+INR 200 for wetsuits).
Urban Exploration at Beatles Ashram
Now… the Beatles Ashram was an interesting visit for many reasons. It allowed some urban exploration (the activity of exploring man-made structures, especially abandoned buildings not generally open to the public) because the ashram is basically a well-maintained expanse of ruins from the 1970s. It had plenty of interesting graffiti for photo ops and wow moments. It also opened my eyes to the scandal surrounding the Beatles’ stay in India.
The Beatles Ashram, also known as Chaurasi Kutia, is set inside the verdant campus of Rajaji Nature Reserve, about twenty minutes away from Lakshman Jhula. During the 1960s and 1970s, the ashram was the training centre for students of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, who devised the Transcendental Meditation technique. The ashram gained international attention between February and April 1968 when the four members of the English rock band—Beatles (John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, and Ringo Starr)—arrived to study meditation here. Tagging them were also such celebrities as Donovan, Mia Farrow, and Mike Love. Fans and artists have left interesting artwork inside. There is a tiny museum with a photo display of the years the Beatles were there, taken by Paul Saltzman. The museum is flanked by a canteen where you’ll be blessed if what you’ve ordered comes within the hour 😋 . The most interesting edifices at the site were the series of meditation domes which may have been used either for meditation or for their impressive acoustics. They looked like alien houses.
Temples Hopping
Usually, the Ganga aarti takes place between 6 – 7 pm daily at Triveni Ghat and Parmarth Ashram in Rishikesh. Triveni Ghat is the largest and the most popular ghat in Rishikesh but it is crowded and a slight mess. It is believed that this is where Lord Krishna died, hurt by the arrow of Jara – the hunter.
The aarti at Parmarth Ashram is probably a better bet for those seeking more comfortable surroundings and a better experience. The area around—Main Market Road, Ram Jhula, Swarg Ashram—also offers other pastimes such as interesting shops, chaat shops and bookstores.
The Garhwal Road Trip Itinerary
A popular route from Rishikesh is to do the Chopta circuit i.e. Rishikesh >> Devprayag >> Srinagar >> Rudraprayag >> Chopta >> Joshimath >> Auli and return. This is an itinerary for several days if you have the time in hand (about 5 days with stops in between). Chopta is also a base for trekking to Tungnath, the third temple of Panch Kedar, which lies 3.5 kilometres uphill. The Chopta – Tungnath – Chandrashila trek is a famous destination for travellers.
We made our own shorter route: from Rishikesh >> Devprayag >> Pauri >> Lansdowne >> Kotdwar >> Rishikesh which was for 3 nights.
Devprayag
Devprayag in Tehri Garhwal district is one of the Panch Prayag of Alaknanda River where Alaknanda, Saraswati River and Bhagirathi rivers meet and take the name Ganga. It is one of the five sacred confluences in the hills and is an important place of pilgrimage for devout Hindus. Literally, Devprayag means ‘Godly Confluence‘. The confluence and a couple of temples are worth a visit. Otherwise, just move along to Pauri.
Pauri
The district of Pauri provides some stunning panoramic views of snow-covered Himalayan peaks, such as those of Nanda Devi and Trisul. Winter also witnesses snow-embellished tall pines and orange-laden shrubs that reminded me of the Amalfi coast. Khirsu and Satpuli are other spots for a quick visit. The Kandoliya Temple is impressive. Overall, a good stop to sit back and admire the dense forests of pine, oak and deodar trees and the thick mist riding up snow-clad mountains.
Where to stay: Mumushku. Don’t expect excellent service but the views are fabulous and the rooms are well done up. The food is great too.
Lansdowne
The quaint town of Lansdowne was founded as a military garrison under the British Raj. The Garhwali Rifles regiment of the Indian Army still trains in the town. Places to visit are the colonial-era St. Mary’s and St John’s Churches, Tip-n-Top viewpoint, Bhulla Tal (an artificial lake), and the Garhwal Rifles Memorial museum (which we couldn’t quite locate but I was very interested in). You can go on impromptu trails in the largely unspoiled terrains around.
Where to stay: Windsor cottage which is at the start of Landsdowne and if you want to go fancy: LaHermitage at the other end. SB Mount and Kasang are others we were considering until the end.
Kotdwar
Literally translating to ‘Gateway to Garwhal‘ stay here only if you’re tired and would like a pillow to rest your head on. There is not much to do in this chaotic city otherwise.
Where to stay: Hotel Grand Kailash
Alternate Route: Mussoorie as a base; Dhanaulti, Landaur and Kanatal as day trips
Located about 1.5 hours (50 km) from Dehradun, the town of Mussoorie is considered the ‘Queen of the Hills’. It lies at 2,005 metres (6,578 ft) above sea level. In winter it frequently gets a good amount of snow and thus is a sight to behold. Popular places to visit in Mussoorie are Mussoorie Lake, Camel’s Back Road, Kempty Falls, Gun Hill, Mall Road and Lal Tibba. Popular day trips are to Dhanaulti, Landaur and Kanatal, each about 2-3 hours away.