5 days in Oman | The Perfect Road Trip Itinerary

As Covid-19 restrictions eased around the world, Oman offered itself up to be the perfect place to tease our way back into travelling. We knew the country was beautiful, it didn’t need much flying time from India, and one could get a visa on arrival! Airfares were cheap too. and so, we booked a trip.

And every moment of it was marvellous beyond words! 🎉

What a relief to be able to travel again.

If you’re looking for someplace exotic, fun, and easy to go to, Oman should top that list. And below is the perfect 5-day road trip itinerary for first-timers in Oman. It tries to pack in a lot and yet optimize the route. Driving in Oman is the best and easiest way to really enjoy the country.

Read on below for the comprehensive 5-day driving itinerary for Oman.

About Oman

The Sultanate of Oman is a country of about 5 million people located in the Middle East. It is made of deserts, surrounded by mountains, and its coast is formed by the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman. Muscat is its port capital. The country is an absolute monarchy. It was ruled by Sultan Qaboos bin Said from 1970 until his death on 10 January 2020, and is now ruled by his cousin, Haitham bin Tariq. About 85% of Omanis follow Ibadi Islam as their religion. While oil is its primary source of wealth, the country also trades in fish, dates and agricultural products.

Oman is generally safe for solo women. The crime rate is very low and terrorism is non-existent. The country has great infrastructure, stunning topography, and very welcoming people. It is an ideal destination for a short break, especially for Indians. Oman’s expatriate population comprises about 44% of the country’s total population and many of them are from the Indian peninsula. It felt like a home away from home for me.

Other fun facts. The national symbol of Oman has a pair of crossed Khanjars. The national animal is the Arabian Oryx. The national drink is coffee! That clinched it for me. The smell of frankincense (an aromatic resin that comes from the trunk of the Boswellia tree) is everywhere. Frankincense is enmeshed in Oman’s culture and heritage and is used abundantly both for purification and as a perfume or medicine.

Currency

Oman’s currency is the Omani Rial. To give you an idea, the conversion rate at the time we went: 1 Omani Riyal = ~2.5 United States dollars. Additionally, a ‘rial’ is broken down into ‘baisa’ or smaller denominations of Omani currency. (like cents, pennies, or paisas). 1 Omani Rial = 1000 baisa. The common currency denominations used are 100 baisas; 1⁄2, 1, 5, 10, and 20 rials.

Travelling from India

We had tried to make the trip to Oman twice before but each time were confused by the visa process because things had turned murky during Covid. We did not know whether it was an e-visa, visa on arrival, or what. Then one day we read that Indian passport holders with a valid US visa travelling to Oman could get visas on arrival. We jumped at it. But after we arrived, there was confusion at the Oman immigration counter on what to do with us, until a superior confirmed that the visa on arrival had been reinstated, and currently the 14-day tourist visa was free of cost!

Therefore, check the Royal Oman Police website for visa requirements before you plan your travel.

Overall, it’s very easy to go from India to Oman. It takes only 2.5 hours to travel to Muscat from Mumbai. We used Oman Air but Salam Air also operates flights on certain routes.

Exciting trips from Muscat. There is so much to do in Oman!

Best Time to Travel

November to February is the best season to travel to Oman since the weather is balmy and the temperature stays below 30 °C. Some regions are more attractive in other months based on inclination, such as Salalah. The high tourist period for Salalah is June to September when it is Khareef season and there is rain. The temperature hovers around 25 °C and the region turns green. On the other hand, the Turtle Reserve is best visited between April and August which is the turtle viewing season. During this time, about 20,000 turtles appear from the sea at night to dig holes in the sand and lay their eggs.

We visited at the end of March and it was already quite hot. It was exhausting to be out for long periods and we had to skip a few sights as a result.

The 5-day Oman driving itinerary route we followed:

Booking.com

Read on below for the 5-day driving itinerary for Oman.

Night 1: Muscat

About

Muscat is Oman’s port capital and is located in the Gulf of Oman. It has a population of about 1.8 million and is Oman’s most populous city. Essentially, it is made of three regions: Old Muscat or the walled city, Muttrah, originally a fishing village, and Ruwi, the commercial and diplomatic heart of the city. Flights land at the airport at Seeb and from thereon you proceed to the city. You can hire a car right at the airport (information on car hire at the end of the article) or if you do not prefer to do in-city driving, you can consider radio taxis. More on that below.

Getting around

We were a bit worried about travelling within the city. We didn’t want to drive a car in the city, maybe just dabble a bit since it was a right-hand drive (from a left-hand drive in India) before going full-fledged. Local taxis were rumoured to be super expensive, but Oman Taxi or OTaxi saved us.

Download the Otaxi app to get around in Muscat. Minimum fares start at 1.5 Rial (about 4 USD). There are areas they don’t ply (usually around hotels that have partnerships with other taxi providers such as Merhaba, or at the airport). In such cases, go to someplace close by and call for an OTaxi.

Alternatively, book a Big Bus Tour (it wasn’t running when we went) or Gray Line (which was sold out, it’s a small van). This will be a hop-on hop-off format and you can tick off all the major sights. There are also some great walking tours.

What to do

Here is the order we followed during our day in Muscat. We spent around 20 OMR overall (~ 50 USD) and packed it in.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Timing: The mosque is open for non-Muslim visitors from 8:30 AM to 11 AM daily and is closed on Friday.

Cost: Admission is free

Note: Dress modestly. Wear a long-sleeved top and long pants, and cover your hair (for women). As far as I saw, this was strictly followed.

The mosque blew my mind in every which way. It is massive, beautiful, and dazzling. It can accommodate a total of a whopping 20,000 worshipers at one time and covers an area of 416,000 square metres. The construction of the mosque took six years. You’d be walking around the corridors and prayer hall with your mouth open. The mosque’s main prayer hall floor has a single piece of Persian carpet that took 600 Iranian women 4 years to make. And most dazzling of all is the chandelier that looms from the ceiling; the second largest in the world; 14 meters high, weighs 8 tons and consists of 1122 bulbs, it was manufactured in Germany using Swarovski crystal which was imported from Austria. The mosque has five minarets that symbolise the five pillars of Islam: faith, prayer, alms, fasting, and pilgrimage.

A walk around the mosque is like walking through a museum of Islamic arts and crafts. The corridors are decorated with work from artistic traditions of various Islamic periods and regions. There is a massive well-stocked library which I believe is open throughout the day (10 AM to 4 PM with a lunch break)

Royal Opera House

This was another resplendent spectacle. Lush in red and gold, carpets and lights, made of Italian and local marble, embellished with richly carved timber, sandalwood and mahogany, each corner blew my mind. The white exteriors were no less magnificent. It is worthwhile to note that an Opera house is a rarity in the Islamic world which frowns upon the act of taking pleasure in music, considering it haram (sinful). Not only did Sultan Qaboos bin Said commission the making of the opera, but he also appointed a lady, Christina Scheppelmann, as the opera house’s director-general. That says a lot.

Inaugurated in 2011, Muscat’s opera house has hosted the likes of Andrea Bocelli and Yo-Yo Ma. Performance season runs from September to March. The Opera Galleria houses restaurants and high-end shops.

Timing: Saturday to Thursday: 8:30 am to 5.30 pm​ (Subject to change); different timings on Friday

Cost: Adults pay 3.15 rials (USD 8) which includes a guided tour of the interiors (done every 30 minutes or so)

Note: If you can watch a show, nothing like it. Check out the Royal Opera House website.  One needs to dress formally to attend a show. Please enquire about it.

Qurum Beach

We chose this spot to have lunch by the beach. It was a hot afternoon and there were very few people around. We came across droves of ducks and seagulls instead. We found a shaded alcove in the sit-out of Kaldi 850 Coffee where we let our bodies cool down. There are a few good restaurants around, including the Twins Turkish cuisine right next to the coffee shop. Refreshed, we then took a cab to the Al Alam Palace compound.

Al Alam Palace

The ceremonial boulevard of the Al Alam Palace has the blue and gold palace building at one end (viewable only from outside. It is used by the sultan to meet guests and dignitaries) and the National Museum of Oman on the other. You can also glimpse parts of the Portuguese-built Jalali and Mirani Forts from here. Walk along the back of the palace grounds to get a clearer view of the sea alongside the Al Mirani fort. Some people claim to have climbed the fort but when we went there were sections closed for construction and we couldn’t figure out how to climb up.

Alternatively, you can spend a few hours in the National Museum. It is open 10 AM to 5 PM Sunday to Thursday, 2 PM to 6 PM on Friday and is closed on Saturdays. Entry costs 5 rials (or 13 USD)

Next, take a cab or walk to Muttrah.

Muttrah Souq and Corniche

Muttrah is home to a bustling port—one of the largest in the region. As you start from the Al Alam palace or the Al Mirani Fort, you will cross the sculptures of the gigantic incense burner at Al- Riyam Park, then the cavorting dolphins, and then arrive at the large traditional bazaar—Muttrah Souq, and then end at the famous fish market. The walk along the 3-km seafront corniche is indeed memorable. There are attractive latticed buildings, mosques, and cafes on one side, and glittering water, boats, and cruise ships on the other. Also, Muttrah Souq is one of the oldest marketplaces in Oman dating back 200 years. Buy all your gifts here and don’t forget to haggle. You can also climb the Muttrah Fort although we did not do it.

Did you know Muttrah was named after the Indian city of Mathura?

Timings: The Souq is open from 8 AM to 10 PM all week long.

Al Mauj

Al Mouj Muscat is a great place to have dinner, hookah, and pass away a few hours of people-watching. The oceanfront location is home to several luxurious residential and commercial establishments, including a fledgling mall. A wide range of marine tours and dive charters operate from Al Mouj Marina, including to the nearby Daymaniyat Island Nature Reserve. There are also dolphin watching, sunset cruises, snorkelling etc on offer.

Where to stay

We stayed at Ramada Encore which cost about USD 70/night. Located at Al Ghubra, it was close to most places, including the Grand Mall and Oasis Mall, where we bought dates and souvenirs. We had our fill of eggy breakfasts at Eggspress Cafe, 10 steps away and awesome. There are local cuisine eateries nearby as well. To reach Ramada from the airport, take the Mwsalat Bus number 8 until Al Ghubra, cross the street, and then walk about five minutes to the hotel. Might be helpful to also download the Mwsalat app to get to know the bus routes. While the buses ply limited routes, they go past most major sights.

Night 2: Jebel Shams

About

Jebel Shams or the ‘Mountain of Sun’ is located in northeastern Oman north of Al Hamra town. It is the highest mountain in the Hajar range which spans the northeastern part of the country. Jebel Shams is located 240 km away from Muscat. While some told us getting there with a 2WD car would be challenging, it wasn’t too bad. Just be mindful of the downslopes which may need good control of the brake and/or gear. There is some offroad driving but it’s not so bad.

What to do

Jebel Shams is a place to soak in the beauty of the mountains in Oman. Even during summer days, the nights here are mild. The Jebel Shams Balcony Walk also called the W6 Balcony Trail, is a popular activity to do here. The walk is to view what is known as the Omani Grand Canyon or the Wadi Nakhur Canyon. The trail is about 5 km one way but based on your fitness level and inclination, you can choose to go as far as you like. The views are pretty spectacular from the get-go. The starting point of the trail is Wadi Ghul in the village of Al Khitaym. If you’re a slow trekker like me, it might take about 1 hour to traverse the Wadi Nakhr canyon, and about 2.5-3 hours to reach the abandoned village of As Sab. There is also a hidden lake near the village which is a great culmination to the sweaty trek. The best time to do the trek is in winter when the sun is kinder, but if you’ve landed here in summer, as we did, start the walk in the afternoon (around 2 PM) when the sun is on the other side of the mountains and its approaching dusk. Remember, you need to come back all-the-way through crumbling stones and precarious slopes, so, go only as far as you want to.

Alternatively, you can drive to Jebel Shams Sunrise Resort which, at about 2000 m in the Jebel Shams mountain range, is a good basecamp to hike further into the mountains. The views from here are stunning too. The hotel is only so-so.

Where to stay

Sama Heights Resort is an awesome property with stunning rooms and views. We stayed at the Mountain View Bungalow. All service was polite and attentive. Wadi Ghul, where the balcony walk starts, is a mere 13 min away by drive. There is another Sama property (Al Khutaim, 2 rooms, being extended) next to the starting point of the balcony walk. You can consider staying there as well.

And now from Jebel Shams make your way to Nizwa.

Night 3: Nizwa

About

Nizwa is a charming ancient city in northern Oman. It’s known for Nizwa Fort, a castle with a huge cylindrical tower built in the 17th century to defend the city’s position on a major trade route.

What to do

Before getting to Nizwa

Misfat Al Abriyeen: Visit the remote mountainous village which is over 300 years old and located 1,000 m above sea level on the foothills of Al Hamra. It boasts amazing agricultural terraces, beautiful alleys, and old mud houses built on top of solid rocks. Walking through the Falaj and exploring the narrow lanes and quaint homes was fun but it was searingly HOT! Thank god for the many water taps along the way. Remember to dress modestly. And don’t take photographs of people without permission. There are a couple of other rules posted right at the beginning of the village. People also opt to stay overnight here to get a local feel such as at Al Misfah Hospitality Inn.

Bahla Fort: Bahla Fort is an immense and sprawling edifice, its walls and towers made of unbaked brick with stone foundations. The fort and settlement owed their prosperity to the Banu Nebhan tribe, who dominated the region from the 12th to 15th centuries. Bahla was the centre of Ibadism (a branch of Islam) which most of Oman follows. But unlike the Nizwa Fort (more on that below) the structures at Bahla Fort were not as well marked and there were no exhibits or explanations. However, overall, the fort was more impressive. The fort is a UNESCO heritage site while Nizwa is not (yet).

Entry is 1 rial (payable by card or cash). Timings are from 8:30 AM to 4 PM Sat-Thur, and 8 AM- 11 AM Friday.

Jibreen Castle: Another impressive 17th-century fort built by the Yaruba dynasty which makes for a quick en-route visit.

At Nizwa

Nizwa Fort is Oman’s most visited tourist destination outside Muscat. While it was built in the 17th century, its foundations are supposed to be as old as the 12th century. On display to admire are impressive high-ceiling halls, decorative doors, well-done-up rooms, twisty staircases and corridors, secret shafts and trapdoors… basically the trappings of a castle fort with traditional Omani architecture and baubles thrown in. The fort is open from 8 AM to 8 PM and we reached it in the afternoon, so it worked well for us to stay until dusk and see the stunning sunset from the roof. The fort is quite impressive (although not as large as the Bahla), each structure is labelled well, and there are exhibits you could spend hours perusing. But the view from the roof is the best part. Really.

Adjacent to the fort is the Nizwa souq. The ancient traditional market has interesting, quaint shops, and the Friday Market is supposed to be quite a spectacle. Overall, I really quite liked Nizwa. I could’ve spent another day here soaking in the charming small-town vibes.

The entry fee is 5 rials. The guided tours and the various sessions (halwa making, pottery etc) take place in the morning.

Lastly, don’t forget to buy some delicious Omani Halwa from Al Saifi opposite the Nizwa Fort (across the road). There are a few popup food trucks in front of the fort too which serve the most delicious street food.

Here are some other ways to see Nizwa and its neighbourhoods.

Where to stay

There are plenty of good options in Nizwa. We stayed at the Omani Guesthouse for 17 Rials (USD). Others that we seriously considered were Nizwa Heritage Inn (right near the fort) and Nizwa Residence Hotel Apartments (some distance away but well-rated), but the Omani Guesthouse was more than perfect. A lucky find.

Night 4: Bidiya/Wahiba Sands

About

The Sharqiya Sands is a region of desert in Oman and is sometimes known as the Wahiba Sands for the Bani Wahiba tribe of bedouins that live in the region. It’s a stunning place where you can experience the beauty and immenseness of the desert. Bidiya is the town at the gate of the desert.

If you have a 4WD you can enter the desert and proceed to your camp. If not, you’ll need to park the car in the Al Maha gas station (or check with your hotel where to park) and ask for a hotel pickup. A round-trip hotel pick-up costs about 30 rials (80 USD). Yeah, it’s pretty expensive.

What to do

At Wahiba Sands

Experience staying in tents perched in a desert and surrounded by never-ending dunes. Go dune bashing, sunrise watching, quad biking, or camel riding. Have delicious food and listen to Omani music at night. Visit a local Bedouin’s home. Climb a dune and gaze at the star at night. There is so much to do, and yet absolutely nothing. A night in the desert, soaking in its expansiveness and stark glowing beauty is truly an unforgettable experience.

Ask the hotel to organize these tours for you.

After Wahiba Sands

Visit Wadi Bani Khalid, a beautiful wadi that is the most accessible of all the wadis in Oman. A wadi is technically a valley or an oasis with water in it. Park your car at the entrance and take a five-minute walk through a Falaj to reach the first of the pools. take a further fifteen-minute moderate hike past the Muqal cave and a zigzagging canyon with white rocks to reach the inner set of pools. Wadi Bani Khalid is free to enter. The toilets and restaurants were closed when we visited.

Where to stay

Sama Al Wasil is an awesome desert camp in Shāhiq. Staying in the Sultan’s tent is totally worth it. The food was excellent and was accompanied by live Omani music. There is a large dune you can climb (using a fixed rope) to do sunrise and star gazing. They also offer dune bashing, camel riding and some other activities in the morning at an additional cost. If you don’t have a 4WD, they charge 32 Rial to transport you to the hotel from the Al Maha gas station. A 2WD drive is apparently possible but not recommended. All the attendants were polite and helpful, going out of their way to make us feel comfortable.

Another premium and popular property is the Thousand Nights Camp.

There is a lot to do in and around Wahiba Sands

Night 5: Tiwi/ Sur

About

The town of Tiwi is located 160 km from Muscat. We weighed between staying at Tiwi versus staying at Sur and ultimately decided in favour of Tiwi as we found an inexpensive hotel and also found it to be close to Wadi Shab which we wanted to do.

What to do

Wadi Shab: is a narrow canyon that is home to turquoise green-blue lakes much like Wadi Bani Khalid, but access to the pools is much harder. Park your car at the entrance, take a short boat ride to cross the river (a cost of 1 rial to be paid in cash), and then proceed to do a 45-minute hike through a slippery canyon track. Not for the faint-hearted. Trekking shoes are recommended. More information here. It is free to visit.

Wadi Tiwi: Not as popular as the nearby Wadi Shab, nonetheless, Wadi Tiwi boasts a stunning pool. It is located close to the Mibam village. It is free to visit. More information here.

Bimmah Sinkhole: Also known as Hawiyyat Najm, this is a water-filled depression in limestone, i.e. a sinkhole. A steep set of steps leads down to the pools where you can also swim. Though, after visiting the other wadis, this may not impress as much. It is free to visit.

Coastal Route: On the coastal route between Turtle Beach/ or Sur/ or Tiwi to Muscat lie some pretty beaches. We stopped at Al Ahjay, Fins Beach, and Quriyat, and also took a short detour to Shangri La Al Husn (the route was out-of-the-world beautiful. You’ve got to see it to believe it.) It is advisable to make reservations at Shangri La, even if you are casually visiting. But it is well worth the trip.

Where to stay

Tiwi Sunrise. The hotel is a good option to take an overnight break on the way from Sur/ Turtle Reserve. It is close to Wadi Shab, Wadi Tiwi, and Bimmah Sinkhole and can serve as a rest stop on your coastal drive. There are some stunning beaches nearby as well. The beach by the hotel is rocky but offers a great sunrise experience (ask for the sea-facing rooms). The hotel lacked ambience and food options, but the service was polite and attentive. Another option is the Wadi Shab Guest House.

Alternative Stop

We would’ve liked to go to the Turtle Reserve at the fishing village of Ras AI Jinz and were seriously eying the Sama property there, but having realized it wasn’t the right time to see turtles (more on that here), decided against it in the end, and kept it for next time.

Good to Know

• Getting a SIM: You can see the counters of all the SIM companies close to the airport’s international arrivals exit. We got an Oorodeo SIM. Prices start at 2 OMR
• Renting a car: Counters of all the car rental companies can be found next to each other right at the airport’s international arrivals exit. We found the rates quoted by Europcar and Dollar the best. For most of the above itinerary, a 2WD should suffice. Only if you’re considering driving into the desert or going to Jebel Akhdar will you need a 4WD. Rates are around 65 USD a day (including excess waiver) depending on the type of car, we took a Kia Sedan. It’s about double the cost to take a 4WD. Documents needed to rent a car are a driving license and an international driving permit with the country’s name on it (this was Dollar’s requirement)
• Local mores: Women need to dress modestly when entering mosques (shoulders and knees covered) and modest dressing is recommended in general for men, too. I saw notice boards at lakes and hotel pools advising covered swimwear, but it was not strictly adhered to, and it didn’t seem to be a problem. However, I’ve heard of people being pulled out of lakes if they didn’t follow the dress code too
• Friday! Keep sightseeing to a minimum. Most historical places are either shut or operate with restricted timings.
• My research showed tap water is potable and, well, I didn’t fall sick
• Toilets in Oman, especially in Muscat, were fantastic. No worries there. There are no public toilets but most tourist attractions and restaurants have easily accessible and clean toilets. Yet, carry toilet paper with you since I’ve read about the lack of them in a few. Since the drives were always quite short (2 – 3 hours) I’ve never had to use a toilet outside of the cities
• Gifts to get back: Dates, coffee, frankincense, khanjar, and silver jewellery
• During the road trip, I did not find many places to eat or even get a cup of coffee. This could be because April was the beginning of the off-season or perhaps it was an outcome of Covid. It is, therefore, advisable to carry snacks and water in the car
• Parking is plentiful and free everywhere!

The Hotels List

• Muscat: Ramada Encore
• Jebel Shams: Sama Heights Resort or Al Khutaim
• Nizwa: Omani Guesthouse or Nizwa Heritage Inn
• Wahiba Sands: Sama Al Wasil or Thousand Nights Camp
• Tiwi: Tiwi Sunrise or Wadi Shab Guest House