Eight Days in Portugal | Porto, Coimbra, Lisbon, Albufeira

“Why Portugal?” people asked me during my trip, usually followed by “And which other country are you visiting?” This puzzled me. Portugal stands perfectly well on its own, bursting with so much to do and see that even my packed eight-day itinerary felt woefully inadequate, despite that I spanned the country from the north to the south, from mountains to beaches, with plenty of interesting stops in between.

But why Portugal, especially in my context? First, it was one of the last European gems left on my bucket list. Second, it offered mild temperatures in December. And third, as someone who spent half her time in Goa, I was curious to explore the roots of its history and culture. Where was its “motherland” of beauty, charm, and saudades?

So here I was—eight days solo in Portugal, getting swept away by a country that moved to its own rhythm and was both like and unlike the rest of Europe.

As the revered Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa says “O Poeta é um Fingidor” (“The Poet is a Faker”) Translated: Portugal is a country full of history / With its stones, its rivers, and its people / Every corner is a memory / Every tree a life / Every beach a secret kept / The sea that separates us is what unites us / And the fado that is heard is the soul of a people.

Truly, there’s so much to experience in Portugal! Read on and you’ll know what I mean.

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Essentials

Flight, Visa, Currency

I took a KLM flight from Mumbai, which had a transit in Amsterdam , and then flew to Porto or Lisbon as the final destination. I chose to enter through Porto and leave via Lisbon, just so I could start slow and end with a bang. Doesn’t make much sense now as I write this but I guess it was also cheaper to do this then. The flight was mostly pleasant; however, immigration at Schiphol (Amsterdam) was a nightmare, and I spent hours in a queue to get my passport stamped. On the onward journey, though, I had a 50-minute transit between flights and was fast-tracked. It pays to have a shorter transit in Amsterdam to avoid the long queues. I wish they would learn something about managing crowds at immigration from us Indians.

Indians travelling to Portugal need a Schengen visa.

Credit cards are accepted in most establishments in Portugal, but I carried €100 in cash. This proved useful in a few situations, such as paying for walking tours (€15-20 for a walk), purchasing stuff at Christmas Market pop-ups, and paying in smaller (usually food) shops in Portugal that refused cards. The places that didn’t accept cards, usually displayed a sign prominently to indicate this. For example, the cafes in Pinhão (Douro Valley) didn’t accept cards, only cash.

In this blog, I’ve listed costs in euros. At the time, the exchange rate made euros and dollars nearly equivalent, so converting should be straightforward.

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Best Time to Visit

It’s common knowledge that the best time to visit most European countries is during summer or autumn, particularly in the shoulder months (April to June in spring and September to October in autumn), when the weather is mild and tourist crowds thin out. That said, even in the winter months, Portugal stays pleasant thanks to its location. The Atlantic Ocean moderates temperatures, and its position on the southwestern edge of Europe (the Iberian Peninsula) means it is influenced by warm air masses from North Africa.

How is it in December?

When I visited (December 20–30), temperatures hovered between 10–14°C, with only early mornings and late nights falling below 10°C. It was sunny all through and didn’t rain once.

Note that most Portuguese homes tend to run cold. Their heating systems are not as robust as those in the rest of Western Europe, so bring warm clothes to stay cosy indoors.

How’s it for Christmas, particularly? In December, Portugal’s cities come alive with the glow of Christmas lights, adorning every corner and neighbourhood with festive cheer. The atmosphere is lively and inviting, but if you’re hoping for traditional German-style Christmas markets, you might find Portugal a bit underwhelming. Bear in mind that some attractions and activities close around Christmas and New Year’s Day. However, the quieter days are perfect for transitioning between cities or taking a break to relax and soak in the holiday spirit.

Some of the notable Christmas Markets in Portugal were:

In Lisbon: Wonderland Lisboa at Eduardo VII Park features a Ferris wheel, an ice rink, and a Christmas village. While it’s festive, it leans towards a family-friendly, child-focused experience and has a commercial feel. Wonderland Lisboa runs well into late December. Elsewhere in the city, you’ll find smaller markets, but these are mostly filled with overpriced stalls selling food, clothing, and jewellery.

In Porto, There are Christmas markets in Praça da Batalha, Praça dos Poveiros, and Aliados Avenue. The one at Aliados Avenue lasts until mid-December.

Others: Óbidos: had a bustling Christmas market that ran well until the end of December. It is particularly attractive as it is set up within the historic castle walls of the medieval city. It was a literal stampede when I visited. In addition, Cascais has a market at Parque Marechal Carmona, and Braga has one at Avenida Central.

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Discount Cards

Travel cards and passes can make city exploration worry-free, but they’re not always ‘worth it’. In some countries, a single card covers all cities, but this wasn’t the case in Portugal. The following overview examines the travel passes available in the cities I visited during my 8-day Portugal trip and will help you decide which options to go for given your budget and travel style.

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Porto

• (What I used) Andante Tour Card: The Andante Tour Card is a tourist card valid for all all modes of public transport, all zones, including transport from the airport to the city centre. You can purchase the card at Andante shops (located at the airport and many subway stations), railway stations, and tourist offices. The 24-hour card costs €7.50, while the 72-hour card is priced at €16.
• Porto Card: The Porto Card has its perks but I didn’t find it enticing enough to get one. I wasn’t going to use it that much. A transport card was enough. Prices are – Valid for 24 hours: €15 | 48 hours: €27 (€13.50 per day) | 72 hours: €32  (€10.70 per day) | 96 hours: €41.50 (€10.40 per day). The card allows free and unlimited use of public transport in Porto. While the free attractions may not be attractive enough, some of the discounts are not bad especially the list of 50% discount on entrance fees. Porto’s historic trams are excluded.

Plan for travel in Porto’s Metro | Plan for travel in Porto’s city trams and buses

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Lisbon

• (What I used) The Navegante or (formerly) Viva Viagem Card: The Navegante Card is a rechargeable card for Lisbon’s metro, buses, trams, ferries, and trains. Just the card costs €0.50, lasts 12 months and can be loaded with single trips or a 24-hour unlimited pass (€6.60). You can purchase and reload it at metro stations. The card supports three options: a 24-hour pass, single journeys, or “zapping” (pay-as-you-go). However, only one type can be active at a time. Zapping is the easiest, deducting money per ride, but it limits you to one transport mode. A single journey may be better for switching modes, while the 24-hour pass offers unlimited travel and saves money if you take 5+ trips in a day. I recommend getting the 24-hour Navegante pass. I found the public transport system a bit confusing, so it was easier to just have unlimited travel.
• Lisboa Card: offers unlimited travel on public transport (metro, buses, trams, funiculars, and trains to Cascais and Sintra). It offers free or discounted entry to attractions such as Jerónimos Monastery, Belem Tower, and some museums. The site has a cool 3-day itinerary which you can follow using the card. A trip to the city centre in the metro is included as is free access to the iconic Tram 28 and a ride on the Santa Justa Elevator. The pass can be bought for 24 (€27), 48 (€44) or 72 (€54) hours.

I wasn’t very impressed with public transport in Lisbon. The Metro, in particular, felt best avoided—it was confusing, stations were defaced, trains were often crowded, and delays were common. Buses also faced delays but were generally in better condition, as were the trams.

As a solo female traveller from India, I had a few unpleasant experiences using Bolt with Indian drivers. It was frustrating to encounter the same issues of inappropriate behaviour from these men, even when travelling abroad. Sigh…

Plan for travel on the Lisbon metro | Plan for travel on Lisbon’s trams and city buses

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Coimbra

• Coimbra Urban Transport (SMTUC) Cards: A travel card costs €0.50 and can be recharged per trip or with a € 3.50-day pass for unlimited urban travel. Check schedules on the SMTUC app. Tariff and schedules here.

As I stayed here for only a day, I took a Bolt from the train station to my hotel and walked everywhere else. The city is easily walkable, with minimal or no inclines.

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Albufeira

• GIRO Card: This card covers the urban bus network and can be purchased at GIRO offices, ticket machines, or some local shops. The GIRO bus network covers most of Albufeira, including the Old Town, beaches, and nearby areas.
• There are also bus and train passes that cover many cities in the Algarve Region such as the Algarve Tourist Travel Pass and the EVA Bus Pass. If you have more time and plan to visit other cities like Faro or Lagos—which I recommend—consider getting an Algarve pass.

As I stayed in Albufeira for only a day, I ended up using Bolt or walking.

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Rideshare

Uber and Bolt are available in most Portuguese Cities. Uber fares rarely exceed €10 for most distances, and Bolt is cheaper. In Porto, rideshare was unnecessary, but I used it extensively in Lisbon, as public transport appeared lacking.

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Travelling Between Cities

A La Carte: I booked train tickets both ad-hoc and in advance using the Omio App. For my itinerary, this approach was cheaper and allowed me to spread out my travel schedule conveniently.

Side note: The ticket-checking process on CP (Comboios de Portugal) trains is varied. One staff member checked names against a list, another scanned the QR code, and one simply asked to see the passport. The AP and IC trains have assigned seats, which are automatically allocated if booked via Omio. I was assigned the last row each time, usually the last single seats, which was super convenient. Note that the train stops for a short time at the station. I almost got left behind at Albufeira because of a slow gentleman in front of me.

I also evaluated the Tourist Travelcard: A Tourist Travelcard gets you unlimited travel on the Lisbon urban trains (Sintra/Azambuja, Cascais and Sado lines), the Oporto urban trains (Aveiro, Braga, Guimarães and Marco lines) and the Algarve line regional trains. On Lisbon urban trains: provides unlimited travel for 1 or 3 days (24 or 72 hours in a row), on the Sintra/Azambuja, Cascais and Sado lines, all for just €6.50 (1 day) or €14.00 (3 days). On Oporto Urban Trains, it provides unlimited travel for 1 or 3 days (24 or 72 hours in a row), on the Aveiro, Braga, Guimarães and Marco lines, for €7.50 (1 day) or €16.00 (3 days). On regional trains – Algarve line, provides unlimited journeys for 2 or 3 consecutive days on the Algarve Line Regional trains. The tickets cost €21.90 (2 days) and €32.90 (3 days) for adults and €15.90 (2 days) and €23.90 (3 days) for children.

Then there’s Flixbus. Omio also gives bus options. I used the app extensively. It was super convenient.

Flying: Flying is an option, with one-hour flights between Porto and Lisbon costing as little as €25–30 (one-way), operated by TAP Air Portugal. But honestly, why would you?

I did consider a flight to Madeira, though. Flights from Lisbon or Porto to Madeira are quite popular, priced at around €30 (one-way), and take about two hours. EasyJet, Ryanair, and TAP operate this route. If I’d had more time (and a bigger budget—it’s not cheap to stay in Madeira), I definitely would have gone. I hear their Christmas and New Year celebrations are killer!

But let’s be honest—trains offer the best way to soak in scenic views, with comfy seats and a stress-free experience for your luggage. They also let you curl up your sock-clad toes and dive into a book without your neighbor’s elbow digging into yours. Because that’s exactly what I did. Train fares, when booked well in advance, are comparable to FlixBus prices.

About

Portugal

Portugal is located on the Iberian Peninsula in Southwestern Europe. It shares a land border with Spain and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and south. From the stunning beaches of the Algarve to the historic cities of Lisbon and Porto, Portugal offers diverse landscapes. It’s also home to the warmest, most hospitable people, known for their wry and self-effacing humour.

About 10.3 million people live in Portugal.

The country’s evolution can be traced through five major historical events.

• Birth of a Nation: The region was first inhabited by Celtic tribes, followed by Romans, Germanic tribes, and the Visigoths. From the 8th to 12th centuries, Moorish influence was prominent, reflected in architecture such as the Moorish Castle of St. Jorge. In 1139, Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal, declared independence from the Kingdom of León and Castile, establishing Portugal as a sovereign nation. By 1492, the Moors were expelled, cementing Christian rule.

• Age of Discovery: During the 15th and 16th centuries, Portugal initiated the Age of Discovery, marked by significant exploration and maritime expansion. Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India secured lucrative spice trade rights for Portugal. Spices, then highly valuable, elevated Portugal’s wealth and global influence. The area around Belém Tower offers enlightening depictions of this history.

• Lisbon Earthquake: In 1755, a massive earthquake struck Lisbon, devastating the city and causing significant loss of life. The city’s rebuilding, led by the Marquis of Pombal, introduced innovative urban planning and engineering techniques.

• Napoleonic Wars and French Invasion: In the early 19th century, French forces under Napoleon Bonaparte invaded Portugal. The Portuguese royal family fled to Brazil, establishing a temporary capital there.

• Carnation Revolution: In 1974, a bloodless military coup, known as the Carnation Revolution, ended the Estado Novo dictatorship and ushered in a period of democratic rule. This marked a significant turning point in Portugal’s history, leading to the country’s democratization and integration into the European Union.

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Porto

Porto, Portugal’s second-largest city after Lisbon, is 315 km north of the capital (about 2.5 hours by train). Located by the Douro River estuary near the Atlantic Ocean, Porto played a key role in the Age of Discovery as a major port for Portuguese explorers. Its shipyards contributed to the development of Portuguese shipbuilding in the 14th and 15th centuries.

The city is home to approximately 250,000 people and is famous for its Port wine, a fortified wine aged in oak barrels along the Douro River. Porto’s historic centre, Ribeira, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers (no prizes for guessing it) cute cobblestone streets, colourful houses, and stunning views of the Douro River.

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Coimbra

Coimbra, a riverfront city in central Portugal and the country’s former capital, is home to a nicely preserved medieval old town and the historic University of Coimbra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 1290, the university is the oldest academic institution in the Portuguese-speaking world.

The city’s population is around 150,000.

In addition to the university building, Coimbra features other notable landmarks, such as the Old Cathedral, the Romanesque Monastery of Santa Cruz, and several picturesque parks along the Mondego River.

Coimbra is also known for its unique form of Fado, traditionally performed by male students of the University of Coimbra.

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Albufeira

I was torn between staying at Albufeira, Faro, Lagos, and Portimão for my Algarve trip. In the end, I picked Albufeira. It was the easiest to reach by train which was important given I had a short 8-day trip planned and popular tours such as dolphin watching and a visit to the Benagil Caves started from the Albufeira Marina. Faro, the capital, was tempting too, but less convenient since its centre is a bit away from the coast. However, you can visit Faro easily from Albufeira.

Albufeira, with roots in the Moorish era, was once a key hub for fishing and trade. The Moors left behind some impressive fortifications that still stand today. The name itself rings a bell, no? The word “Albufeira” comes from the Arabic word “al-buheira,” which means “the small lagoon” or “the little bay.”

Albufeira has something for everyone. You can relax on beautiful beaches, explore the historic Old Town, or party all night on its lively strip. It’s like a saner version of Vegas, with bars, clubs, and restaurants, but also some redeeming history and culture thrown in.

Around 44,000 people live here.

Albufeira is a great choice if you’re planning an 8-day trip to Portugal and want to slip in the Algarve, too. It’s easy to get to, has much to offer, and the vibe is just right.

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Lisbon

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and its largest city. Situated on the Atlantic coast, it has been influenced by various civilizations, including the Romans, Moors, and Christians. Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in Europe, predating other major cities like London , Paris , and Rome . It has been continuously inhabited for over 2,000 years. A devastating earthquake hit Lisbon on November 1, 1755, followed by a tsunami and fires, which nearly destroyed the city. Much of the city was rebuilt after that.

The city has a population of approximately 550,000. The Tagus River, the longest in the Iberian Peninsula, flows through Lisbon.

Lisbon is known for its abundance of sunshine, with over 2,800 hours of sunshine a year, making it one of the sunniest cities in Europe. It’s also known as a party city, eating late and clubbing into the early hours.

Lisbon, famously built on seven hills, offers breathtaking panoramic views from its many Miradouros (viewpoints). The city’s rich history is reflected in its two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Belém Tower, a striking symbol of Portugal’s Age of Discoveries, and the Jerónimos Monastery, an architectural marvel of the Manueline style.

Lisbon’s charm wouldn’t be complete without Alfama, one of its oldest and most iconic neighbourhoods. With its narrow streets, historic vibe, and the haunting melodies of Fado music, Alfama feels like the cultural heartbeat of the city.

Lisbon is also a hub for culture and arts, with numerous museums, theatres, and music venues.

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How to See

Porto

The best way to see the city is through a walking tour. Most cover the following:

Day 1: The City Center

• Rúa Santa Catarina: Start from Bolhão Metro station. Stroll along the adjacent shopping streets. Stop at Majestic Café for breakfast and then head to see the Chapel of Souls to admire its stunning blue and white tiles. Visit the Bolhão Market to experience Porto’s local produce and cuisine.
• Avenida dos Aliados: Come here and stroll along this central boulevard, admiring Modernist architecture and the imposing City Hall. When I visited, the area was throbbing with Christmas Market energy and it was such fun to hang here and people-watch.
• Praça da Liberdade: Walk to this main square featuring the equestrian statue of King Peter IV.
• São Bento Railway Station: Just a short walk away, admire the hall adorned with 20,000 hand-painted tiles depicting Portuguese history. This station was like a compass for me. I also took the train to Pinhão (Douro Valley) from here. A total stunner of a station.
• Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto): Walk to this Romanesque temple for breathtaking architecture and views over Porto. Many walking tours start or end here. This is a nice meeting place as well.
• Clérigos Church and Tower: This is an iconic Porto landmark. Climb the 75-metre, 225-step bell tower (€8) for panoramic views of Porto. Arrive at 9 AM to avoid crowds. In winter, the church turns magical with a stunning light show, an absolute must-see—arrive 20 minutes earlier and snag a place in the back pew for the best experience!
• Lello Bookshop: I checked out Livraria Lello in Porto after much hemming and hawing, as it seemed like a tourist trap of a bookstore, and I hold bookstores in high reverence. Lello is supposedly the most (and not “one of the”) beautiful bookstore in the world. I finally relented and went, and I’ve got to say, it was pretty stunning. The ornate details are gorgeous, and the collection of books is sumptuous (believe me, the word is fitting in this context). But let’s be real—the main reason the bookstore is famous is because of the J.K. Rowling connection. This bookstore supposedly inspired the Harry Potter series. However, that’s a myth; she never actually visited the store. However, it is true that the writer lived in Porto for a brief while, teaching English, and the inspiration of the city’s streets and places is visible in the novels.
  Entry tickets are available online and must be purchased for a specific 15-minute time slot. The entry cost is €8 for the most basic ticket, which covers the purchase of a book. FYI, their special edition books, which are beautifully packaged miniatures, cost €16, so you will find something worth taking back with you. The bookshop is always super crowded but tends to be lighter in the afternoon hours.

• Palácio da Bolsa (Stock Exchange Palace): Take a guided tour of this historic building to marvel at its opulent interiors. Tickets are pricey, at €13. I didn’t do it, but the square around Bolsa is fun to people-watch and just relax.
• São Francisco Church: Visit this Baroque masterpiece and explore its intricate interior and catacombs.
• Ribeira District: Stroll along the Douro riverbank. Admire the Dom Luís I Bridge and enjoy the colourful atmosphere with outdoor terraces and restaurants. Consider taking the Funicular dos Guindais, which connects Batalha (Rua Augusto Rosa) to Ribeira (Avenida Gustave Eiffel) offering stunning views for €2.50 (one way). The funicular offers a quick and scenic route between these two parts of the city. Dinner in Ribeira: End your day with a delicious meal by the riverside or in nearby establishments.
• End with a Fado Performance: Book a show at Ideal Clube to experience Porto’s soulful music.
• Optional visits (a bit far from the centre): Crystal Palace and Casa da Musica.

Day 2: The Beach and Vila Nova de Gaia

• Take tram line 1 from Ribeira (Stop: Infante, near the São Francisco Church) to Passeio Alegre or a bus (lines 500 or 502) from São Bento Station (Praça da Liberdade) to Foz do Douro, Porto’s beach where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Porto’s beach lighthouse, Farol de Felgueiras, is located here, at the mouth of the Douro River. Built in 1886, this stop offers scenic views of the Atlantic Ocean and dramatic waves during high tide. Nearby, explore Praia dos Ingleses, Jardim do Passeio Alegre, and the Foz promenade. It’s a great spot for photography, and sometimes, usually on Sundays, there are local food and craft fairs. By the way, bus 500 is a fantastic ride back and forth from the city centre to Foz do Douro.
• Return to Praça da Liberdade (city centre).
• Walk or take the tram to cross the Dom Luís I Bridge to Vila Nova de Gaia. Vila Nova de Gaia is Porto’s twin across the river and is famous for its port wine cellars. Many of Portugal’s top port wine brands age and store their products in cellars here.
• Explore Wineries: Visit famous wine cellars like Ferreira, Sandeman, or Ramos Pinto for tours and tastings.
• Walk Around: to spot cute stores and unique graffiti such as the Half Rabbit.
• Option for a Douro River Cruise: Book a scenic river cruise for a unique look at the city.
• Watch the sunset at Jardim do Morro, the park perched at the top of the hill by the Dom Luís I Bridge. The views of Porto’s Ribeira district, the Douro River, and the bridge are breathtaking from here. Another fantastic option is the Serra do Pilar Monastery. The Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar is a 16th-century monastery in Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal. It is known for its unique circular church and cloister, which are rare in European architecture. The monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
• If you prefer a laid-back vibe, stroll along the riverfront promenade in Gaia, near the port wine cellars, and watch the sunset dance on the water. For something special, grab a drink at one of Gaia’s rooftop bars or restaurants—they offer amazing sunset views, too.
• End with a Fado Performance: Book a show at Calem or Cais do Fado—which you can book even as you walk along. Cais do Fado’s people sit out to sell tickets right on the riverfront promenade. A show with port wine costs €17. Shows are daily at 5:30 PM and 7 PM.

Day 3: Douro Valley

How to go

What to do

What a wonderful day I had in the Duoro Valley! I hiked up to Quinta Do Jalloto with literally no other tourists alongside, just the whole valley to myself and another solo traveller. The weather was pleasant, a sunny 10°C. The path was bordered by vine bushes bearing dried grapes—still sweet—alongside plump olives, bright oranges, and unexpected bursts of cacti. It wound through rows of rolling vineyards, their leaves turning a soft yellow in harmony with the swaying faraway willows. As we walked, the sky deepened into the rich tones of a resplendent sunset—the same bright yellow bathing the landscape like a halo. The hike ended with a delightful spread of port wine and tapas at the wine estate. It was simply perfect!

The Duoro Valley is stunning, with its perfectly manicured vineyards, the sparkling Duoro River (the word ‘Duoro’ means ‘Golden’), and impressive bridges (Portugal has some remarkable bridges). The higher you climb, the more breathtaking the views get.

The Douro Valley is the birthplace of Port wine. Wine has been produced here for over 2,000 years, making it one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Historically, the wine was transported downriver in flat-bottom boats called ‘rabelos’ to be stored in barrels in cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia, just across the river from Porto. Nowadays, the port is transported there in tanker trucks. The Douro Valley has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

If you do not wish to do a hike, there are a few other options:

• As soon as you come out of the train station and walk towards town—on your right with the station behind you—the first ‘quinta’ or a wine-growing estate, right at the end of the road, is Quinta do Bomfim. The second on the other side of the bridge, right opposite Bomfim is Quinta das Carvalhas. These two offer an easy way to sample wines and get back on the train once you finish.
• Take an organized wine-tasting tour such as this one.
• Do the Duoro Six Bridges Tour which also has wine tasting on board. A pop-up counter at the train station sells tickets. An hour-long trip with a glass of port wine on board costs €12.50 and 2 hours for €25.

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Coimbra

I struggled with making my itinerary for Coimbra as I was travelling on Christmas Eve and no tours were running. The municipality’s Facebook page is a useful resource to find out what’s going on in town. For myself, I devised an easy walking tour. It helped that I was staying right at the centre. The bummer was not being able to visit the university and its grand library because they were closed. On another day, this comprehensive 3-hour tour looked superb and well worth doing.

DIY Walking Tour

• Praça da República: A lively square near the university, surrounded by cafés and restaurants frequented by students. It is a social hub and a venue for various events, including concerts and festivals.
• Universidade de Coimbra: Founded in 1290, the University of Coimbra is the oldest in Portugal and one of the oldest in Europe. It was originally established in Lisbon but moved to Coimbra in 1537. The university is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is known for its beautiful architecture, including the Joanina Library, a Baroque masterpiece, and the Royal Palace of Alcáçova, which now houses the Rector’s Office. Also visit the nearby Jardim Botânico. Founded in the 18th century, the University Botanical Garden spans 13 hectares and features plants from all continents, showcasing global biodiversity. The garden is open to visitors daily, but from October to March, it closes at 5:30 PM. Walk until Miradouro do Penedo da Saudade for a great view.
• Sé Velha (Old Cathedral): This was an impressive cathedral but was closed when I visited. Built in the 12th century, Sé Velha is one of Portugal’s finest examples of Romanesque architecture. It was the site of the coronation of King Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king. The square outside the cathedral is the setting for one of Coimbra’s most iconic traditions, the Serenata Monumental, a night of serenades performed by university students in traditional academic attire during the Queima das Fitas celebrations.
• Mosteiro da Santa Cruz (The Monastery of the Holy Cross): This monastery was once a prestigious artistic and cultural school where notable figures, including St. Anthony of Padua, studied. St. Anthony later became one of the most venerated saints in the Catholic Church. The monastery is also the burial site of Portugal’s first two kings, Afonso Henriques and Sancho I.
• Jardim da Manga: Known as the Mango Garden but has nothing to do with mangoes. It is said that the original design of the garden was sketched on a napkin (manga in Portuguese) by King John III during a visit to Coimbra in the 16th century. This Renaissance-style garden is part of the Santa Cruz Monastery complex and features a distinctive octagonal fountain surrounded by small pavilions, reflecting Moorish architectural influences.
• Torre de Almedina: This medieval tower was once the main gateway to Coimbra’s walled city, overseeing the narrow passage into its historic core. The tower now houses the Museum of the Walled City, offering a glimpse into Coimbra’s medieval past. Visitors can climb the tower for stunning views and admire its architecture. The Arco de Almedina, rebuilt in the 11th century by the Arab commander Al-Mansur, is the last surviving gate of three that once led to the citadel. Nearby, Rua de Quebra Costas (literally “Backbreaker Street”) connects the gate to the Old Cathedral. Its name reflects the steep, slippery climb that was a challenge for merchants hauling goods uphill.
• Torre de Anto: Another preserved castle tower, the Torre de Anto, now features a small museum dedicated to Fado de Coimbra, a unique style of Portuguese music performed traditionally by university students. The museum also highlights the history of the Coimbra Guitar, an instrument central to this musical genre.
• Praça do Comércio: This bustling square in Coimbra hosts various parties and cultural events throughout the year. It is lined with shops offering regional products and is home to two significant historical churches.
• Cross the Ponte de Santa Clara. Use this pedestrian-friendly bridge to enjoy panoramic views of the city and the Modnego River, which is the longest in Portugal, flowing 234 kilometres. On crossing the bridge, go to the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha and other attractions on the opposite bank. Here, you’ll also find the Portugal dos Pequenitos, a miniature park displaying replicas of Portuguese monuments.
• Return to the starting point via the Pedro e Inês Footbridge. Spanning the Rio Mondego, the 600-foot Pedro e Inês bridge is known locally as the “bridge that doesn’t meet.” The two halves are displaced, giving it such a visual effect. The balustrade is made from a clear, fractal pattern crafted in blue, pink, green, and yellow glass. The bridge is named for the ill-fated affair between Pedro, the Crown Prince of Portugal, and the Queen’s lady-in-waiting, Inês de Castro.

Evening

Fado

In the evening, attend a Fado performance. Coimbra Fado has origins in the university. Male students or alumni of the University of Coimbra typically perform it in black capes. The music reflects themes of student life, unrequited love, the city, and the Carnation Revolution.

At Fado ao Centro – Enjoy live shows every day at 6 PM (€15 for a 50-minute show + a small portion of port wine after the show).

At aCapella, a 14th-century chapel, dinner starts at 7:30 PM and the Fado show is at 9:30 PM (€10 cost for the show and a glass of port wine), free entry at all times except during the show which requires a ticket.

Christmas Market

Visiting Coimbra on Christmas Eve was a mix of good and bad. On the one hand, the famous university—arguably the heart of the city—was closed, and the students were on holiday. Without them, the campus felt a bit lifeless. What’s a university without its students? On the other hand, I was able to explore the UNESCO World Heritage-listed campus in peace, without feeling like I was disrupting someone’s routine or being stared at for trespassing into their lives.

The university complex is massive, with imposing buildings, statues that seem to stand watch, and walls covered in intricate tilework. The views from the grounds are stunning, and strolling around the area turned into a leisurely hour or two. As I walked, I found myself imagining what it must be like when the students are around—running to morning lectures, cramming for exams, or perhaps sneaking moments with a forbidden love. The iconic black robes added to this mental picture, making it feel like something straight out of a Dark Academia novel.

As the day progressed, a different energy enlivened the streets. It was an unusually warm Christmas Eve, with temperatures soaring to 18°C, and the sun shone brilliantly. The pleasant weather drew locals outdoors, creating a lively buzz throughout the city. Families and friends strolled leisurely, window shopping, savouring ice cream, and posing for photos beneath the dazzlingly lit Christmas tree.

Later, I found solace within the walls of Santa Cruz, my first Portuguese church in Coimbra, as many others remained closed. The interior was an impressive sight–grand and serene, a harmonious blend of history and quiet beauty. It felt like a fitting conclusion to a day immersed in the city’s rich academic and cultural heritage.

Christmas Eve in Coimbra was peaceful yet bustling, a perfect harmony of stillness and holiday spirit.

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Albufeira

The popular places to visit in the Algarve region are Albufeira, Faro, and Lagos. Since I was travelling by train from north to south, Albufeira was the easiest to reach because it had the most connections. It’s convenient for a short itinerary, and many of the organized tours depart from Marina de Albufeira. If you have more time, you can take the train further down to Faro as well. Faro offers a more serene experience, and I hear Lagos is even more idyllic.

What struck me first about Albufeira was the availability of great hotels at affordable prices. Travelling in the off-season meant I found some great deals. Another pleasant surprise was how quiet the roads were, making the walk to the marina and the Old Town especially enjoyable. Of course, all this was in December.

The Algarve, with its whitewashed houses and gentle surf, embodies the quintessential Western European retirement dream. Elderly couples, often timeshare owners, are a common sight, enjoying leisurely walks with their dogs along the picturesque coastline.

The Algarve Tourist Travel Card offers unlimited 48- or 72-hour travel on the Algarve Line, making it easy to hop between spots like Albufeira and Faro. Just ask in the train station.

The Old Town itself doesn’t have much to boast about—mainly a mix of restaurants and souvenir stores. However, the winding side streets are charming, with unique home fronts with colourful doors, and gardens. I had the most delicious meal at O Manjar, a place I highly recommend if you’re in the area. The restaurant was near empty during my visit, with just me and a French couple, but it’s usually quite a popular spot as it serves local delicacies at reasonable prices. The staff was cool, too!

You can start your day in Albufeira by heading to the Marina and taking a tour, with the most popular being the dolphin and caves tours. Unfortunately, the tour I was supposed to take was cancelled on the day because the ocean was too rough. This happens often in winter, as the Atlantic can be unpredictable—that’s when it hit me why December was off-season!

Even without the tour, the Marina is worth a visit. It has a lively vibe and plenty of restaurants offering authentic food, better than the ones in the Old Town.

You can saunter around in the Old Town and check out the following:

• Praia dos Pescadores (Fisherman’s Beach) – A beautiful beach close to the old town with golden sand and scenic cliffs.
• Rua da Oura – A street famous for its nightlife, though it was quiet during my visit. The party goes on until 4 AM and the mornings are dead.
• Clock Tower (Torre do Relógio) – located on José Bernardino Sousa Street and República Square, the Clock Tower is a historic symbol of Albufeira. Originally part of a Muslim tower within the defensive line of Albufeira Castle, it protected the main gate. In the 20th century, a wrought iron crown was added to support the hour bell, and a clock was installed on the west wall. The tower is illuminated at night.
• The Municipal Museum of Archaeology was formerly the Town Hall and now serves as a museum, highlighting the region’s history through its collection of artefacts and temporary exhibitions. The upper floor hosts temporary exhibitions, including painting and photography. Entry is €1.
• For a historical detour, visit Saint Sebastian Church and the Museum of Sacred Art in Miguel Bombarda Square. Built in the late 18th century, the church features a Manueline-style sandstone side door, a baroque main door with intricate stonework, and a striking dome. Inside, the museum houses an impressive collection of 15th- to 18th-century sacred art. €3 entry fee and open at restricted hours.
• and the Atlantic Ocean in all its glory. The place to start from is Praia da Oura, a popular beach with a lively atmosphere, restaurants, and bars. A free elevator and stairs take you from the old town to the beachfront. It will be a morning well spent.

You can also take a tuk-tuk tour which costs €40-50 for two hours.

Albufeira makes for a convenient and scenic stop in the Algarve, especially if you plan your visit during the off-season when the streets are quieter, and you can take advantage of good deals. It was awesome simply staying in my hotel room and watching the sunrise from the balcony.

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Lisbon

Lisbon has so much to offer that it felt overwhelming at first. I had only three days to explore, after all. So, I packed in a lot. I joined walking tours of Centro and Alfama in the morning and another in Belém in the evening. Both were excellent and gave me a great overview of the city. But Lisbon is a city where you can stay for weeks. There’s much to do!

Day 1: City Centre

You can explore the city through one of its many great walking tours, but here are the must-see spots.

• Tram 28: Start your day bright and early at Martim Moniz Square to catch the iconic Tram 28 (or Eléctrico 28). This scenic journey is a must-do! You’ll glide through historic neighbourhoods, passing by Miradouro da Graça for a good view of the city and orient yourself. If you plan to hop on and off, consider purchasing the Navegante day pass for €6.60, which covers unlimited travel on trams, buses, and metro for 24 hours. Otherwise, a single ride on Tram 28 costs €3.00 if purchased on board. The stops on Tram 28 include Martim Moniz, Graça, Alfama, Lisbon Cathedral, Baixa, Commerce Square, Chiado, Bairro Alto, and more, covering all of Lisbon’s historic districts.
• Igreja and Miradouro da Graça: The Igreja da Graça is a historic church located in the Graça neighbourhood of Lisbon. Built in the late 15th century, it is one of the city’s oldest churches. Originally constructed in the Manueline style, it underwent significant renovations in the 18th century after the 1755 earthquake. The church features Baroque elements and is known for its simple, yet beautiful interior. The Miradouro da Graça is a popular viewpoint near the Igreja da Graça. It overlooks the Alfama district, the São Jorge Castle, and the Tagus River. The viewpoint is often less crowded than some of Lisbon’s other famous viewpoints.
• Rossio Square and Pastel de Nata: Walk to Rossio Square. Grab a fresh, warm Pastel de Nata (custard tart) from the famous Manteigaria – trust me, it’s worth it! Soak in the lively atmosphere of the square.
• Commerce Square and Augusta Arch: Continue on the tram, passing by Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) and admire the impressive Augusta Street Arch (Arco da Rua Augusta).
• Alfama Views: Hop off the tram at Largo das Portas do Sol or Miradouro de Santa Luzia for breathtaking panoramic views of the city. Explore Alfama: Wander through the charming, narrow streets of Alfama. Visit the Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon Cathedral), the oldest church in the city, and St. Antony’s Church.
• Castelo de São Jorge: Head up to Castelo de São Jorge, a medieval castle with amazing views. Explore the castle grounds and enjoy the atmosphere.
• Baixa District: Descend into the Baixa district and stroll along Rua Augusta, which is lined with shops and restaurants.
• Elevador de Santa Justa: Take a ride on the Elevador de Santa Justa, a unique wrought-iron elevator offering fantastic city views. (Alternatively, walk up to Convento do Carmo for similar views.)
• Chiado: Explore the historic shops of Chiado, particularly along Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett.
• Bertrand Bookstore: Don’t miss Bertrand, the oldest operating bookstore in the world!
• Viewpoints: The viewpoints in this itinerary are: Miradouro da Graça, Portas do Sol, and Santa Luzia. Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara at Bairro Alto is also worth going to. The tour guides also told me that the view of Lisbon from atop Almada’s Christ the King Statue i.e. Miradouro do Cristo Rei is superb. Another viewpoint, considered a hidden gem, is Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, or “Our Lady of the Hill,” which is Lisbon’s highest viewpoint, located in the Graça neighbourhood. It is next to the 18th-century Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Monte. To get there, take tram 28 to Graça and then walk up Rua da Senhora do Monte. The climb is steep, but the views are stunning.

Although I didn’t visit any museums in Lisbon, I was told the Museu Nacional De Arte Antiga was impressive and worth doing.

It was intriguing to notice that many buildings, especially in Porto but also in Lisbon, seemed either abandoned or undergoing renovation.

Belém

Belém feels like a world apart from Lisbon’s city centre, offering a calmer, more laid-back vibe. My highlights were being able to glare at Vasco da Gama’s tomb (India’s nemesis!); devouring the world’s best pastel de nata or Pastéis de Belém (1837); and watching the sunset over Belém Tower and Tagus River. Oh, and the glimpse of the Cristo Rei statue (Jesus with his arms out, like the one in Rio) across the river in Almada, standing tall as if supervising the 25 de Abril Bridge, was memorable, too.

The name “Belém” comes from the chapel of Santa Maria de Belém (Saint Mary of Bethlehem), located nearby.

Belém was Vasco da Gama’s departure point as he set sail in 1497 for India and arrived at Kozhikode (Calicut), Kerala, in 1498 via the Cape of Good Hope.

If you remember your history lessons, Vasco da Gama was the Portuguese explorer who sailed around the Cape of Good Hope and discovered the sea route to India. This opened up a direct link between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, kickstarting an era of global exploration and setting the stage for Portugal’s imperial dominance in India. Da Gama’s voyage was a game-changer in the Age of Discovery, giving Portugal control of lucrative spice trade routes and giving a huge boost to the empire’s economy. And you know what happened in India after he arrived. Grrr…

The Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Santa Maria de Belém were commissioned by King Manuel I in 1501 to honour da Gama’s discovery of the sea route to India, symbolizing Portugal’s maritime power during the Age of Discovery. Both structures, part of the same complex, are built in the Manueline style, blending Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance elements with intricate maritime motifs. It was funded by a tax on the profits of the Portuguese India Armadas. More grrr..

Da Gama is buried in the church. I threw some bad vibes at him.

In 1983, the Jerónimos Monastery was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the nearby Tower of Belém.

A short walk away is the Tower of Belém, a fortress on the Tagus River built to protect the Jerónimos Monastery. Near it, you’ll find the Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), a ship-shaped tribute to Portuguese explorers, with a rooftop offering great views. The mosaic compass rose and the world map nearby shows the explorers’ routes, marking Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The scenic Tagus River promenade links these sights and offers views of the 25 de Abril Bridge and the Cristo Rei statue.

Belém is 30 minutes and €10 (by Uber or Bolt) from Lisbon’s centre. I joined a free walking tour (usually at 10 a.m. or 3:30 p.m.) that was awesome. The guide even fast-tracked us past the queues for a taste of the legendary Pastéis de Belém and gave us a peek into the kitchen.

Belém is pretty easy to tackle on your own. Take tram 15 from the city centre (Praça da Figueira) to Belém. See the Church of Santa Maria de Belém (free to enter, with a usually fast-moving queue), then go to the Jerónimos Monastery (€10 cost to enter). Afterwards, cross the road and garden to see Belém Tower and the monuments surrounding it. Sunset is a pretty awesome time to be here. Hop back on Tram 15 to return to the city. If time allows, visit Centro Cultural de Belém (CCB).

Costs: €10 for the Jerónimos Monastery Cloister. €12 for the Cloister and Belém Tower, €16 for the Cloister, Belém Tower, and the National Archaeological Museum. Free entrance to all with the Lisboa Card.

Not far off is the LX Factory. An industrial complex turned creative hub, LX Factory is home to restaurants, shops, galleries, and offices, showcasing Lisbon’s inventive, artistic side. Have dinner here.

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My guide in Belém was Kat, and oh boy, did she have opinions about Portuguese men. She confidently claimed that over 80% of Portuguese marriages ended in divorce and that most Portuguese men preferred lounging at home under their mothers’ (or wives’) protective wings rather than working. I couldn’t help but think, there’s no way that’s true—it has to be an exaggeration.

Without missing a beat, she dove into a captivating account of her life before her boys (4, 8, 14—introduced with a palm gesture marking their heights). She had been an extra in a few Bollywood movies (and yes, she was stunning—the boys clearly hadn’t ruined her figure) and spent five years working for an Indian tour company, leading Russian tourist groups across India. Then came the twist—she took off to Berlin for a music festival where she fell for a Portuguese man. She left her job in India, moved to Lisbon, and married the man. The rest, as they say, was history—or more precisely, the beginning of her boys (4, 8, 14, in case you forgot) and the eventual bitter end to the marriage. “He lost his job. Never found another. Never helped with the boys. Was just a total pain.”

“And that’s how I know,” she added, winking. To be fair, this conversation happened after her tour. She was a fab guide otherwise.

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Day 2: Sintra

Sintra is best seen with Tours. This is the best and most economical tour of Sintra I found that starts from Lisbon and covers a lot of ground. There are many others.

 

Pena Palace

Pena Palace, perched on a rocky hilltop in Sintra, is a striking example of eclectic architecture and is part of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sintra is about a 45-minute drive or a train ride from Lisbon, making it an easy and worthwhile day trip.

The palace started as a monastery in the 15th century, but things took a dramatic turn in 1755 when an earthquake pretty much levelled it. Fast forward to 1838, when King Ferdinand II swooped in, bought the ruins, and set about rebuilding the palace in honour of his wife. Sadly, she never got to see the finished palace—she passed away giving birth to their eleventh child (!).

Pena Palace showcases a mix of architectural styles, including Manueline, Gothic, and Renaissance. It incorporates the original chapel and cloisters and served as a summer residence for the royal family for a while.

The site is often crowded, which can detract from its charm.

To do it yourself, you can take a 40-minute train ride from Rossio Station in central Lisbon to Sintra for approximately €4.50 (round-trip; free with a Navegante day pass or the Lisboa Card). Rideshares to Sintra cost approximately €22–25.

From Sintra, Bus 434, costing about €7.60 for a round-trip ticket, connects to Pena Palace. Note that the bus fare is not covered by the Navegante day pass or Lisboa Card. Bus 434’s route includes stops at the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace.

Alternatively, a 24-hour Hop-On Hop-Off ticket (€13.50) provides unlimited use of Scotturb buses, including Route 435, which stops at Sintra National Palace, Quinta da Regaleira, Palácio de Monserrate, and Palácio de Seteais. Tickets can be purchased from the bus driver or at the ticket office near Sintra station.

Tickets to enter the grounds of Pena Palace cost €10, while entry to the palace costs €20. Palace entry operates on timed slots, and tickets for many slots often sell out. Tickets can be purchased in advance online. Upon arrival, you can book an audio guide for €1.09 on-site.

Entry costs €12 onsite and €13 online.

Even otherwise, Sintra is a charming town full of things to see and do. Stroll through the streets, sample delicious treats like travesseiros and queijadas, and browse local boutiques. Check out the Sintra National Palace with its iconic twin chimneys, or visit the Monserrate Palace, a mix of stunning architecture and lush gardens. History buffs will love the Castle of the Moors for its epic views and medieval vibes, while nature lovers can hike through the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park or find peace at the Convent of the Capuchos, a 16th-century monastery. Don’t miss the coffee spots and historic pathways that make exploring Sintra so delightful. Just arrive early to beat the crowds!

Most tours also include a visit to Cascais, a coastal town in Portugal, located about 30 kilometres west of Lisbon. Once a fishing village, it became a royal retreat in the 19th century and is now a popular tourist destination. Cascais is known for its stunning beaches, such as Praia da Rainha and Guincho Beach, and its charming old town with cobblestone streets and traditional houses. Landmarks include the Cascais Citadel, a 15th-century fortress, and the Boca do Inferno cliff formation. The town is also home to the Museum of the Sea and Casa das Histórias Paula Rego. Cascais is said to be the wealthiest town in Portugal.

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Day 3: Fátima, Nazaré, and Óbidos

I did a full-day tour to cover the three. The full-day tour of Fátima, Nazaré, and Óbidos Small-Group Tour from Lisbon was beyond fantastic. At €85 it was also value for money. Another – Fátima, Nazaré, Óbidos and S. Martinho do Porto Small-Group Tour from Lisbon also looked nice and seemed to cover more ground.

Fátima

Fátima, in central Portugal, is home to about 20,000 residents and has become a Catholic pilgrimage hotspot after three shepherd children—Jacinta, Francisco, and Lucia—reported visions of the Virgin Mary in 1917. Today, the Sanctuary of Fátima draws millions annually, especially on May 13 and October 13, commemorating the first and last apparition—”Miracle of the Dancing Sun.” Jacinta and Francisco died young and are buried here, while Lucia became a nun but was not canonized. The Chapel of Apparitions and a massive basilica dominate the site, where visitors light candles or walk on their knees in devotion—that was hard to watch.

It is claimed that the children foresaw the 1981 assassination attempt on Pope John Paul II and that the bullet from the attack is enshrined in Fátima. There is a statue of Pope John Paul II on site which is a popular selfie spot. The churches and monuments on the site are strikingly modern and distinctive.

I visited on a Sunday, and bells heralded our arrival. Did it mean good luck? Or maybe it was signalling that a non-believer was arriving 🙂 The site was crowded, with about 5,000 people attending mass at the chapel. There was a bit of jostling and feet stamping, but overall, it was surprisingly quiet and orderly, with ample seating at the chapel.

Fátima is about 125 km northeast of Lisbon, approximately a 1.5-hour drive.

 

Nazaré

Óbidos

Óbidos is a charming medieval town surrounded by well-preserved castle walls. It’s a maze of cobblestone streets, colourful houses, and cute gardens. Known as the “Town of Queens,” it was given as a wedding gift to the Portuguese queens since the 13th century, starting with Queen Isabel of Aragon.

Today, it’s a popular tourist destination, with only about fifty locals living within the walled town; the rest have moved to nearby areas. But don’t let that deter you! Óbidos makes up for the small local population with its famous Ginjinha, a cherry liqueur served in edible chocolate cups. I visited during the bustling Christmas market, and though it was packed, the fun atmosphere made up for the crowds. And yes, I enjoyed more than a few of those delicious drinks. They were only about a euro a shot. So, err… why not?

Óbidos hosts several events throughout the year, with the Christmas market being especially popular. Touristy? Sure. But with its enchanting vibe and tasty treats, Óbidos is hard to resist. It’s just 120 km northeast of Lisbon, a quick 1.5-hour drive away.

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