A Week in Kazakhstan | The Perfect Itinerary

A Week in Kazakhstan | Do it Yourself | The Perfect Itinerary | Perfect for solo travellers 

Kazakhstan was my first foray into a Central Asian country.

I visited in late March of 2024 for a week. At first, I thought it was not the best time to visit, as it would be bone-chillingly cold, however, it was quite the reverse. The weather was great, hovering between 10-15 degrees Celsius, and Nauryz (the local New Year) celebrations were on that week. It was a win-win.

I chose that period to travel as I was able to snag affordable tickets (USD 200 return on FlyArystan from Delhi to Almaty). However, planning the trip posed some challenges as certain tours do not operate in winter, and those available proved expensive for the solo traveller. The itinerary I ultimately followed was simple, requiring minimal effort, and well-suited for solo travellers, especially females. If you have extra days, consider adding a side trip to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan), which is close to Almaty, or fly to Astana (located in North-central Kazakhstan and its capital).

I found Kazakhstan captivating with its unique culture. I am drawn to the charm of ex-Soviet Russian countries. I mean I think of Soviet Russia and imagine KGB, Kalashnikovs, brutalist architecture, thick snow, an abundance of deliciously cooked meat, tall attractive folks in furry coats and hats, a language spoken in whispers (because of all the secrets), musically abrasive, like a cat on a hot tin roof. Anything Russian seems to me tantalizingly romantic and secretive. And Kazakhstan was all the good parts and more. Its natural beauty, especially, is something to reckon with.

Kazakhstan is an exciting, off-the-beaten-path destination with plenty to offer in a week. It’s a haven for nature and culture enthusiasts and was a good introduction to Central Asia for me. The city of Almaty was as modern as they come, offering everything that an urban heart desires, while the surrounding lakes and canyons were welcome nature breaks.

My itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Land in Almaty (Stay: D’Rami Hotel)

Day 2: Almaty Sightseeing (Stay: D’Rami Hotel)

Day 3: Almaty Sightseeing (Stay: D’Rami Hotel)

Day 4: Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes from Almaty (Tour; starts at 8 AM)

Day 5: Charyn Canyon, Fly to Shymkent (Tour) (Ends at 8 PM in Almaty; Stay: Royal Park Hotel; or fly to Shymkent)

Day 6: Shymkent Sightseeing, Travel to Turkistan (Stay: Express City Hotel)

Day 7: Turkistan Sightseeing, fly to Almaty and out (Stay: Хостел Кафе 777)

Now… turrumpurrumpura… diving into the week-long Kazakhstan itinerary.

Essentials

About Kazakhstan

Kazakhstan was my first Central Asia STAN, although, you know, I am from HinduSTAN 🙂 However…

The “STAN” countries refer to a group of Central Asian nations—Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan—that gained independence following the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991.  These countries share historical ties and, to varying degrees, have been influenced by Persian, Mongolian, and Russian cultures over the centuries. They also share similar landscapes, which include mountains, deserts, and the steppe regions. Kazakhstan is the biggest of them all and is the 9th largest country in the world in terms of area. It’s the world’s largest landlocked country. I confess I knew none of this until I started researching it.

Kazakhstan’s earliest settlers were nomads. In the 13th century, it became part of the Mongol Empire. Later, it fell under Russian rule and was part of the Soviet Union until gaining independence in 1991. The 18 million population of Kazakhstan comprises various ethnic groups, but the majority practice Islam; although, there are no obvious markers in attire or architecture to indicate this. They look neutrally east-European, with mongoloid eyes, going about in a characteristically stoic and organized ex-USSR city.

Kazakh and Russian are the official languages. The country is rich in natural resources, particularly in oil and minerals, contributing to its economic development. No wonder things are so cheap. A coffee cost me less than a dollar! After the beating inflation gave us post-Covid, it was a pleasant surprise to find credit card charges as tiny as a dollar.

The country is home to stunning landscapes and is popular with nature lovers and serious trekkers. Kazakhstan is also famous for the Baikonur Cosmodrome, a space launch site used by the Soviet Union and Russia. So, Kazakhstan has something to offer whether you’re into history, nature, diverse cultures, or outer space :).

Is it Safe?

Is Kazakhstan safe for travellers? Solo? Female? As far as I saw, absolutely! The only problem you might encounter is missing flights or cabs because of the language gap. The locals are friendly and welcoming, a bit too much sometimes with their pointed (but non-intrusive, non-lewd) scrutiny. No one I met complained of harassment or any untoward incident. Just adopt the usual precautions. However, I was out and about until late at night and did not see any cause for concern. I think it’s very safe for solo travellers, even females.

Currency

At the time of my travel (March 2024), 1 Kazakhstani Tenge (KZT) equalled 0.0022 USD. This means that dividing by 500 gives you the USD equivalent, or dividing by 5 gives you the Indian rupee equivalent (roughly). You can withdraw Tenge at the airport, but better rates are available in the city. Numerous ATMs and money changers all over the city offer rates close to market rates. However, you’ll need to withdraw only a little cash as most places accept credit cards. I withdrew the equivalent of 30 USD worth of KZT per day, which came to 65,000 KZT. I could have withdrawn even less. However, my Indian credit card did not work on the Yandex Go app, and I wanted to do some street shopping and snacking during Nauryz, so the extra cash came in handy.

Apps and Websites

Download the Yandex Go App on your phone, which is the local equivalent of Uber, and use it to travel everywhere, within cities and sometimes between them. A caveat for Indians: My Indian credit card didn’t work on the app. I tried a couple of times and a couple of different ways, but no joy. Yandex Go’s Support wasn’t much help either. Therefore, I paid cash everywhere, which was easy enough, only that the drivers often didn’t have change for large bills.

Download Google Translate; it is invaluable for translating signs, instructions, menus, and just simply to have a conversation with a local. You’ll need it constantly, trust me. Most locals do not understand English, but the Kazakhs are so nice, they waited patiently for me as I fumbled and typed on Google Translate so that they could help me.

Use Yandex Maps as an alternative to Google Maps, as Google would not show me bus routes. Locals recommend 2 GIS, but I could not gauge how to use it in English.

Caravanistan and VisitAlmaty were useful for planning.

SIM Card

Your options at the airport are Tele2 and Beeline. When I landed (at 5:30 AM), I found only the Tele2 counter open, which offered me a 30-day SIM card for 6,000 KZT, purchasable only in cash. As I was too tired to withdraw cash at that moment—doing the conversions in my sleepy head didn’t seem appealing—I decided to buy a SIM card in the city. I was getting a free pickup from my hotel anyway, so I didn’t immediately need a SIM card. (By the way, I couldn’t connect to the airport WIFI).

The Tele2 store opened at 10 AM at Astana Square in Almaty, and I purchased a SIM card for 3,000 KZT, 30 days valid, with 14 GB of data. It worked well for me. Note that most shops and establishments open at 10 AM in Almaty.

Best Time to Go

Weather

I was in Kazakhstan between March 22 and 28, 2024. I’d read that winters in Almaty (December to February) can be harsh. Therefore, I’d packed plenty of warm clothes. However, it was unusually warm when I was there, with temperatures hovering between 10 to 15 degrees Celsius, with mostly sunny days and only intermittent rain. The lakes were still semi-frozen and slowly melting. A walk in Charyn Canyon was pleasant. So, it was a mixed bag.

As per conventional wisdom, however, the best time to visit Kazakhstan is in the summer, from July to September.

Nauryz in Almaty

Travelling at the end of March offered a delightful surprise: experiencing Almaty during Nauryz. It was a joyride, totally unplanned, and I was happily catapulted into the lively atmosphere, jostling between families out for a good time, soaking in the local culture without any effort on my part, sampling food I would not otherwise have gotten to eat, and seeing wares from local artisans laid out in front of me. Almaty’s happiness and energy during this week were contagious, and I was out on the streets from morning to night to make the most of it.

Nauryz, which signifies the start of the new year for Kazakhs, spans several days from March 21st (i.e. the day of the spring equinox). Nauryz means ‘new day’ and has been cherished in the steppes since ancient times. In 2009, Nauryz was included in UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

How is Nauryz celebrated in Kazakhstan? People exchange greetings, wishing each other “Nauryz meiramy kutty bolsyn! Ak mol bolsyn!” (“Happy Nauryz! May there be abundance!”). At dawn, they engage in rituals such as spring cleaning and planting trees. By noon, they gather for elaborate feasts known as dastarkhān. The streets of Almaty come alive with families out in droves, eager to watch and actively participate in dances, games, competitions, performances, musical shows, and bustling markets. Traditional Nauryz kozhe, a hearty soup made from meat, milk, flour, oils, various grains, and water, is served, alongside an array of homemade dairy products like kumys, shubat, and saumal, available for purchase on the streets. It’s a good time and an easy way for tourists to immerse themselves in the local culture and savour authentic cuisine.

Useful Words to Know

The language barrier is no joke; it’s a real challenge. If you’re fluent in Russian, navigating Kazakhstan would be a breeze. But for me, it was a constant struggle, with Google Translate becoming my trusty sidekick, frantically translating every interaction. I found myself resorting to mime more often. Thankfully, Kazakhs are incredibly friendly and patient, graciously waiting as I clumsily typed out sentences on Google Translate, nervously toggling between ‘To’ and ‘From’ for the languages. Sometimes, they would gently take the phone from me and correct it, flashing a benevolent smile my way.

However, if you know zero Russian, you can get by and not look like a noob if you know these phrases/words.

• Privet – hello
• Spasibo – Thank you
• Da svidaniya – Goodbye
• Da – Yes
• Nyet – No
• Ya nie govoriu po-russki – I don’t speak Russian

Travel for Indians

Presently, Indian citizens can enter Kazakhstan without a visa. Several flights connect Delhi to Almaty and Astana on Air Astana and its budget arm, FlyArystan. The Indian carrier Indigo also flies to Almaty. My roundtrip ticket (Delhi-Almaty-Delhi) on FlyArystan cost ~ INR 16,000 (USD 200), purchased six months before the travel date. The flight from New Delhi to Almaty takes about 3:30 hours. However, finding a suitable connecting flight from Mumbai to Delhi was challenging as night flights from Mumbai frequently experienced delays.

Almaty was buzzing with Indian tourists. It felt like we might be the biggest tourist group in the country. Probably because it’s just a quick 3-hour hop from Delhi and you don’t need a visa—a pretty rare deal for us. I reckon we also feel at home, given the locals’ relaxed attitude towards honking and spitting, the lack of strict queuing etiquette, and the reckless driving. But man, I can only imagine how awesome it would be to have as many parks, green areas, and spacious sidewalks as they do in the city. Kazakhstan cities should be held as a prototype for robust urban planning.

Where to Stay

In Almaty, I stayed at the D’Rami Hotel. The hotel’s location was perfect for seeing the city, just minutes away from the Abay Theatre, and close to every place of significance. The bus stop to catch Bus 12 to Medeu was only a few minute’s walk away. There’s also a huge supermarket right around the corner. D’Rami offers morning coffee for 500 KZT and also food on request from Bon Bon Cafe (although I did not order; the cafe is downstairs, facing the street). The hotel has a beautiful lounge and seating area. The rooms were spacious, clean, and overlooked a happening area, great for people-watching. However, no noise seeped in once the windows were closed. I loved the hotel and would recommend staying here to all budget tourists. It was wonderful value for the money paid. The cost was 18,000 KZT (USD 40 | INR 3300) a night.

In Almaty, the Royal Park Hotel was a good close-to-airport hotel for a short transit stay. It also offered free pickup and drop from and to the airport. It proved to be an entertaining night, as the broken radiator in the first room I was given attracted a group of service ladies who acted like nosy aunties, inspecting me and asking questions in Russian. Eventually, I was moved to another room just as hot, with the assurance that it was an improvement. However, the hotel staff was efficient, the breakfast sumptuous, and it was great value for money as a transit stay.

In Shymkent, I stayed at Express City Hotel – Fantastically central, a single room with a bathroom for 16,200 KZT (USD 36 | 3,000 INR) per night.

In Turkistan, I stayed at Хостел Кафе 777 or Khostel Kafe 777 – All places of interest were a ten minutes walk away. A double room with a bathroom for 10,800 KZT (USD 24 | 2,000 INR) per night. If seeking luxury in a heritage building, The Hamptons is fabulous and centrally located.

The Seven-Day Kazakhstan Itinerary

A Week in Kazakhstan | Do it Yourself | The Perfect Itinerary | Perfect for solo travellers 

Almaty Sightseeing

About Almaty

What to See

Day 1: A DIY Walking Tour

1. Almaty Hotel: Built during the Soviet era and open for business since 1967, Almaty Hotel is a significant Almaty landmark. It stands out for its architectural style, reflecting the trends of the period in the Soviet Union, incorporating elements of modernism alongside local Kazakh influences. It has historically served as a central hub for visitors to Almaty, offering accommodation to tourists, business travellers, and dignitaries. Also notable is the mosaic on its ​South facade—the picture of Enlik Kebek 1965. The mural depicts a popular Kazkha fairytale with a plotline similar to Romeo and Juliet, describing two lovers meeting on horseback and ending with their happy union after overcoming the challenges on the way.
2. Astana Square: Kazakhstan’s second-largest square (after Republic Square), also known as Old Square, stands in front of the Kazakh-British Technical University (also impressive). Renamed in 1980 after the opening of Republic Square, it holds historical significance with a monument dedicated to World War II heroes Aliya Moldagulova and Manshuk Mametova. Serving as a popular public gathering spot, the square frequently hosts events and ceremonies.
3. Arasan Wellness Complex: Arasan (meaning “a warm source” in Kazakh) is a wellness complex that opened to the public in 1982, replacing the previous public baths on Gogol Street. The complex features different spa styles: Russian banya, Moroccan hot marble, Finnish dry sauna, Turkish steam hammam, and many others. It has 12 pavilions with six domes made of valuable stones, wood, ceramics, and plaster. Soak in a sauna or massage here after a hard day’s walk. Women and men are separated. The costs are economical.
4. Panfilov Heroes Memorial Park: Panfilov Park is dedicated to the Panfilov heroes, a unit of 28 soldiers who sacrificed their lives defending Moscow during World War II. This is apparently a fabrication by the Russian propaganda machine but the park’s name and fame have stayed. Named after General Ivan Panfilov, the park includes a large black monument honouring soldiers from all 15 Soviet republics and an eternal flame in remembrance of WWII. The park is also home to the Folk Instruments Museum and the Ascension Cathedral.
5. Ascension Cathedral: I am fascinated by the Orthodox style of churches and the Ascension Cathedral in Almaty, a Russian Orthodox Church, left me suitably impressed with its gold, stained glass, and overall resplendence. However, unlike some other places of worship that boast extravagance but lack spirituality inside, the church was peaceful. You could sit quietly and converse with God. The ostentation did not detract from belief. The Ascension Cathedral, also known as Zenkov Cathedral, is a Russian Orthodox cathedral located in Panfilov Park in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Completed in 1907, the cathedral is made of wood but without nails (because Jesus died nailed to the stake). It is 56 meters tall and is said to be the second-tallest wooden church in the world.

   

6. Green Bazaar: Green Bazaar, also known as Kök Bazaar, boasts a history dating back to 1875. Initially, it served as a rest stop for travelling merchants. Over time, it evolved into a full-fledged market offering a range of goods. The 1970s saw a shift from wooden stalls to a distinctive brutalist-style covered building. In 2017, a modern two-story pavilion replaced the earlier structure, significantly expanding the market’s footprint to over 20,000 square meters. Interestingly, the name “Green” (Zelyony) likely originates from the historical “kolkhoz” system, where agricultural products were collectively sold. You can buy clothes and souvenirs around the Green Bazaar, as well as sample local food.
7. Almaty Central Mosque: The Central Mosque is one the largest Muslim buildings in Almaty, from the 1990s.
8. Arbat Shopping Street: 20 minutes from the Central Mosque, is the Arbat Shopping Street, also known as Zhybek Zholy Street. It is pedestrian-friendly and takes on a whole different bustle and colour during weekends and holidays. It is home to high-end branded stores alongside charming boutique shops.  In addition, it boasts fountains, sculptures, and local art and crafts. Spend the evening here.
9. Optional now or add later: Abay Opera House: The imposing Abay Opera House was founded as a music studio in 1933 in Almaty and became a theatre in 1934. It’s named after Kazakh poet, composer, and philosopher Abay Qunanbayuli. Alongside hosting international favourites such as The Nutcracker, Swan Lake, and Carmen, it also shows local operas and ballets. (More on this later)

Day 2: Golden Quarter and Kök-Töbe

The primary attractions of this day are Kök-Töbe and the Golden Quarter.

1. Start at Abai Square. Check out the Abai Statue and Palace of the Republic, before heading to take the cable car to Kök-Töbe. Cable car prices are here.
2. Kök-Töbe: Kök-Töbe, meaning “Green Hill,” stands as the highest point in Almaty at 1,100 meters above sea level. The peak offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding Trans-Ili Alatau mountains, making it a popular spot for tourists and locals seeking scenic photo opportunities. A key landmark atop the hill is the Almaty TV Tower, a prominent symbol of the city reaching a height of 371.5 meters, ranking among the world’s tallest. Don’t forget to check out another unique attraction—the Beatles Statue. Honestly, Kök-Töbe didn’t impress me much, but it’s a good spot to enjoy city views on a clear day and to purchase souvenirs. Interestingly, buying souvenirs in Almaty can be challenging as they are not readily available in most tourist sites or are of poor quality.
3. Once you are back from Kök-Töbe via cable car to Abai Square, explore the area around. Stop at Republic Square. Also known as New Square, the Republic Square serves as Almaty’s primary square, hosting national holidays and various assemblies. The Almaty Mayor’s Office stands in front, while a monument complex illustrating Kazakh history is on the opposite side. On Republic Square, you’ll find the Monument of Independence which is topped by a replica of the Golden Man. After gaining independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, Kazakhstan adopted two powerful symbols: the Golden Man and the snow leopard. The Golden Man represents the nation’s historical roots, while the snow leopard, a majestic big cat native to the mountains near Almaty, embodies strength and is a crucial element of Kazakhstan’s natural heritage.
4. The historic centre of Almaty is known as the Golden Quarter. This is an area of mainly low-rise buildings from pre-Soviet and Soviet times. The pastel-coloured, neo-classical buildings were home to the elite of Soviet-Kazakh society, the writers, composers and politicians. Many buildings have a commemorative plaque to show who once resided there. A Golden Quarter stroll usually starts at Republic Square, passes Pushkin Square, and Tulebaev Street—a leafy pedestrian alley that hosts the homes of Kazakh elites, moves past the Abay Theatre, finally ending at the Old Square i.e. Astana Square.

Almaty: Abay Theatre

When in Almaty, do not miss watching a show at the Abay Kazakh State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater, also called Abay Theatre. I was lucky to catch Aldar Kose (a ballet) on seat 1, row 1, and guess how much the price was? 4500 KZT i.e. 840 rupees or ten dollars! Where in the world can you watch a ballet this cheap? And the show was delightful. Lilting music, spirited and beautiful dancing, and great sets. And never have I ever sat so close to the orchestra.

Aldar Kose is a Kazakh folk fairy tale and the main character’s name. He is like a Kazhak Robin Hood, a kind swindler, cheating the greedy rich and helping the poor. The ballet was very Bollywood-ish. Young lovers (Aysulu and Ilentai), an evil rich man kidnapping the girl (i.e. Aysulu), Ilentai distraught, hurt, and near death, an evil witch (Jezhtyrnak) saving him but wants a piece of him, the heroine’s devastated mother trying to reinstate the couple, lovers reunited again with the help of Aldar Kose, etc etc. Fun, comic, elegant, enthusiastic. Tickets are available here.

Day 3: Medeu and Shymbulak

Bus 12 from Hotel Kazakhstan

Are you curious why I haven’t mentioned the iconic Hotel Kazakhstan until now? That’s because you would most likely take bus 12 to Medeau from the bus stop next to the hotel. Arrive a little early to take some pictures of this iconic landmark. Hotel Kazakhstan frequently appears in postcards and city posters and stands as an enduring symbol of the city. The Soviet-style hotel, boasting 26 floors, opened to guests in 1977.

But coming back to Medeu, a high-altitude ice skating rink, and Shymbulak, a popular ski resort, two must-visit destinations near Almaty, there are two ways of reaching them. Bus 12 originates from Railway Station Almaty-2, traverses Ablai Khan Street 13 where I boarded, halts at the stop opposite Hotel Kazakhstan, and subsequently reaches Medeu Cableway (the penultimate stop, where one can access the cable car to Shymbulak), taking approximately 30 minutes. The final stop is the Medeu Sports Complex (ideal for accessing the Medeu Skating Rink and climbing the 842 Health Steps for panoramic views and potential knee discomfort). The bus ticket costs 100 KZT if paid by the Onay Card or 200 KZT if paid in coins. Note that Saturdays and Sundays are busy, and the bus gets crowded from Hotel Kazakhstan. Alternatively, you can avail of a Yandex Go cab which charges about 2500-3000 KZT (6-8 USD) one way.

Medeu skating Rink

To do this, get down at the last stop of Bus 12.

Surrounded by the Tian Shan mountains, Medeu is a high-mountain sports complex at an altitude of 1,691 meters (5,548 feet) above sea level. It is known to be the world’s highest outdoor skating rink, offering a unique opportunity to glide on ice in a stunning mountain setting. It has a capacity of over 8,000 spectators and features a large ice surface measuring 10,500 square meters. Over 120 world records have been set at the rink, earning the nickname “The Factory of Records”. A dam above the rink protects it from mudflows.

The final stop of Bus 12 leads to what locals refer to as the 842 steps “Health Staircase”, a popular spot for residents seeking exercise and testing their stamina. Also, reaching the summit offers panoramic views of the Medeu ice skating rink, the dam, the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains, and the city from the observation deck. I inadvertently embarked on this climb, mistakenly assuming the cable car station awaited atop the 842 steps, and reluctant to seek directions (relying on Google Translate once again). Nevertheless, I captured some stunning photos at the summit. During summer, there’s a staircase race open to all. In 2020, Yuri Ponomarev completed this climb and descended 20 times in 6 hours and 42 minutes. Can you beat him?

Shymbulak Ski Resort

To do this, get down at the penultimate stop of Bus 12.

Shymbulak, also known as Chimbulak, is the largest ski resort in Central Asia. It is located in the upper part of the Medeu Valley, at an elevation of 2,200 metres (7,200 ft) above sea level. The resort is popular for its mild climate, sunny days, and great snow through the winter (from November to May). A modern cable car system connects Medeu and Shymbulak, providing scenic transportation and access to higher slopes. There are three stops to the top which take more than an hour to reach and cost 6,000 KZT (details on the prices below).

You can also do this by availing of a tour such as this or this which covers Kök-Töbe.

Day Trips from Almaty

Popular day trips from Almaty include visits to Big Almaty Lake, Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes, and Charyn Canyon. I chose this trip to Kolsai, Kaindy Lakes, and Charyn Canyon. This tour was great in every way. Two days was just right to see everything without rushing. (I cannot fathom how the ‘express’ version of this tour works!). Our timing at each stop was perfect. We always arrived when the crowds were leaving or before they arrived. Our guide, Tim, was amazing. He kept us engaged and entertained. There was a lot of walking and climbing as part of the tour, so it’s not for those who can’t handle it although there are options like riding horses (6000 KZT) or sitting out some parts. The overnight stay at the Yurt was pleasant. The tour included unexpected extras, like a Day 2 Dastarkhān, a Persian term for a lavish meal spread typically served at weddings, offering an abundance of food. Overall, I’d recommend this tour to anyone. There was a bit of confusion about my airport drop-off, but they sorted it out in the end.

Kolsai Lakes National Park

Kaindy Lake

Kaindy Lake is within Kolsai Lakes National Park but is separate from the park’s three main lakes. It came into existence following an earthquake in 1911. It’s hard to explain how surreal this place is. Kaindy means birch tree and the lake has birch trees growing from underneath the lake, reaching to the top. This phenomenon was the result of an earthquake in 1911. The lake is 400 meters long (1,300 ft) at an altitude of 2000 meters. The area is often called the “Sunken Forest” or “Ghost Forest“. The cold water helps preserve the tree trunks, which are overgrown with algae and other water plants.

Charyn Canyon

Charyn Canyon stretches for about 80 kilometres along the Charyn River, cutting through the red sandstone cliffs. Often referred to as the “Grand Canyon’s little brother,” it boasts unique rock formations, such as towering pillars, cliffs, and intricate patterns sculpted by erosion over millions of years. I thought it was far better than the Grand Canyon because you can actually walk amidst it! As part of the tour, we explored various parts of Charyn Canyon on the two days, including Yellow Moon, Black Canyon, and the Valley of Castles—the absolute best and the most touristy. The Valley of Castles earns its name from the towering rock formations resembling ancient fortresses.

Big Almaty Lake

I didn’t visit the Big Almaty Lake, but our guide gave instructions on how to get there. He advised taking Bus 28 to its final stop. From there, one has two options: turn left and embark on a 2-hour walk to the lake, or opt for a special taxi available in the area, which offers a 3.5 to 4-hour drive directly to the lake.

Shymkent Sightseeing

About Shymkent

Shymkent, situated in the southern region of the country, is an hour-long flight from Almaty. Its earliest documented history goes back to the 12th century when it was a small nomadic settlement that endured raids by the Dzungars and was part of Genghis Khan’s empire, serving as a stop for travellers along the Great Silk Road. Later, the city became a crucial transit point between Russia and Central Asia. Ancient Shymkent was renowned for its sanctuaries, religious, and spiritual monuments, and continues to attract tourists and pilgrims to this day.

Shymkent has a population of 1 million and is the third largest city in Kazakhstan after Almaty and Astana.

After Almaty, Shymkent felt like more of the same—beautiful parks, imposing monuments, some cafes, and bazaars. It was Almaty’s smaller twin; a large, small town. In my view, it is enough to be in Shymkent for a day or even less. However, I’ve been told local cuisine in Shymkent is of better quality than Almaty which is fairly Westernized.

A flight to Shymkent from Almaty by FlyArystan cost me 24,000 KZT (USD 53 | 4500 INR).

What to See

There are primarily two areas of touristic interest in Shymkent, that you may want to cover.

One is the area around Abay Park. Visit the Museum of Victims of Political Repression and monuments commemorating World War 2, the Soviet-Afghan War, and firefighters. Nearby are the Museum of Fine Arts (at the north entrance) and the Khakim Abay Museum (at the south entrance). Swing by Mega Mall if interested. See the Fontan Tyul’pan on your way. The Tulip Fountain celebrates the city’s connection to tulip flowers which come to life in spring.

The other significant area is the one around Ordabasy Square. The Square features a 34-meter monument of Mother Earth, symbolizing national unity. Adjoining it is the imposing Independence Park, which features a central entrance adorned with an arch, a singing fountain, flower arrangements sourced from the Netherlands, and the Altyn Shanyraq monument symbolizing Kazakhstani unity, crafted from 137 metal elements representing the country’s diverse nationalities.

Independence Park is also home to the Koshkar-ata mosque or the Ordabasy Mosque, built in the classical Ferghana architectural style of the 1850s. The nearby Koshkar-Ata mausoleum (Qabanbay Batyr Ave 28a, Shymkent) gives the river and the mosque its name. The mausoleum was constructed on top of the grave of Koshkar Ata, the legendary Kazakh Sufi and the disciple of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. It’s an important spiritual landmark in Shymkent. Legend has it that Koshkar Ata asked his brother to deliver spring water for Ahmed Yasawi (whose disciple he was; more on him in the Turkistan section later), but warned him not to look back on his way to Turkistan. However, the brother looked back anyway, causing the water to spill. In the place where this happened, brooks appeared, which merged to form the Koshkar Ata River. (source: www.shymkent.info). 

If you grow tired (as I did), stop by to eat and refresh at Jeti Tandyr (History) restaurant which is diagonally opposite the road to Ordabasy Mosque at Ayteke Bi St 4г, Shymkent. The Qyrgy Bazar is also close by to explore and stock up on goodies.

A five-minute walk away is the Shymkent Citadel. According to archaeologists, the history of Shymkent likely originated in this area. The 25-meter-high citadel fortress protected the city on the Great Silk Road. The complex spans nearly five hectares and is being slowly restored to its original state. (On Google Map: Tsitadel’ Starogo Goroda Shymkent ). The citadel is open from 9 AM to 6 PM on all days, although it wasn’t open when I went. (Instagram: @qamal_shymkent). There are several museums inside and the view of the city is supposed to be great.

It’s evident that the local Kazhak municipalities are trying to make their cities more attractive to tourists. I noticed this in Turkistan, where I thought they were doing a better job as compared to Shymkent (the little that I saw). Shymkent is attempting to rebuild the old Citadel to resemble antiquity, but it looked to me like a theme park imitation; and not very well done. It’s hard to tell what’s old and what’s new because they’ve built over the original walls. And to think the Great Silk Road passed right through it! I wasn’t too impressed overall. We’ll have to wait and see how it turns out in the end.

After a short tour of Shymkent, I took a YandexGo taxi to Turkistan. You can also take a bus/matryoshka. To do this, take a taxi via the YandexGo app and go to Samal Bus Station in Shymkent to go to Turkistan. To get back to Shymkent from Turkistan, catch a YandexGo taxi again to arrive at Merey Bus Station in Turkistan to get on a bus back to Shymkent.

You could add other points of interest located on the outskirts of Shymkent such as the ancient settlement of Sairam, Mar-Tobe Hill, Ibrahim Ata Mausoleum, and Karashash Ana Mausoleum.

Turkistan Sightseeing

I was glad to have made the trip to Turkistan. It was dissimilar from Almaty or Shymkent, and quite a unique visual experience. The city’s unique cityscape was evident as soon as my Yandex arrived. It was evening, and all the buildings were lit up like the tail lights of a Mercedes Benz. It wasn’t unlike a casino town, albeit a sedate one. Its skyline seemed rich, colourful, and vibrant; there were so many patterns, shapes, and colours in every corner of the city that it boggled my mind. Some of it was ancient, and some fairly new. The city has done a good job of holding on to and perpetuating its Silk Road cultural heritage, and it strikes you everywhere you look, even in a mundane entertainment centre or coffee shop. Not to mention the number of camels I saw in Turkistan, both real and made-up. After all, camel caravans were the vehicles of choice in Silk Road times.

The best part of Turkistan is that it needs only a few hours of exploration to tick off the essentials as everything of importance is within a two-kilometre radius of the Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum.

About Turkistan

Turkistan was a key junction on the Silk Road, the ancient network of trade routes connecting the East and West, that played a crucial role in developing civilizations for over 1,500 years. Stretching across Asia, the Silk Road connected China with the Mediterranean, passing through Central Asia, the Middle East, and parts of Africa and Europe. While silk was a highly sought-after commodity, the route facilitated the trade of spices, textiles, precious metals, and cultural and technological advancements. The mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Turkistan, is the main draw here. Not only is it a jaw-dropping edifice, it has great historical importance for the Muslims of Central Asia. The day I visited, scores of children were visiting too, being taught their Islamic heritage.

I went to Turkistan from Shymkent via Yandex and returned to Almaty by flight. There are no daily flights between Almaty and Turkistan at present.

A Yandex cab from Shymkent to Turkistan costs 22,000 KZT (USD 50, 4,100 INR). It took nearly 3 hours to reach at night. The driver was super sweet but kept cribbing in broken English about how he was not supposed to go outside the city and that Yandex made a mistake.

A flight from Turkistan to Almaty on FlyArystan cost me 31,887 KZT (USD 70 | 5800 INR). This flight worked out well for me as I flew out of Almaty Airport and back to New Delhi from the airport the same day without having to go into the city. The FlyArystan flight took off and landed on time despite the weather being very bad i.e. rainy/ stormy. I was quite worried.

What to See

Turkistan in Kazakhstan is worth coming to. Just to see how deeply a city can be embellished with cultural motifs inspired by the past. They’re numerous, everywhere, and beautiful. Horsemen, camels, peacocks, mosaics, tulips, flowers, patterns. The skyline is crazy with domes and gables of different sizes and shapes, all shiny. The city is steeped in man-made cultural motifs. It seems artificial but is wondrous to discover how you can beautify a city inspired by the past.

You will need at least three hours at the Mausoleum Of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, to explore all that it has to offer. After that, simply cross the road to go to Karavan Saray where you can eat, watch some theatre, get a picture taken wearing local garb etc.

The Mausoleum Of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi

Constructed between 1389 and 1405, the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi honours the Turkic Sufi poet and mystic, Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. Recognized for its grandeur, the mausoleum features a unique architectural style blending Persian and Central Asian influences. The turquoise-domed structure boasts a diameter of 45 meters, making it one of the largest in Central Asia. Its intricate tilework and geometric patterns showcase the region’s artistic heritage. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the mausoleum attracts visitors for its historical importance and architectural prowess, in addition to being significant for pilgrims.

The mausoleum complex boasts several other significant sites, including the Mausoleum of Rabia Sultan Begum, the daughter of a Timurid and great-granddaughter of Timur, erected in her honour after she died in 1485. Another highlight is the Underground Mosque, which features a prayer hall, halls for ritual ceremonies, and a small room underground. Additionally, the Oriental Bath, built between 1580 and 1590 for the numerous pilgrims visiting the mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, stands about five meters high, with half of its structure underground to protect against drafts, and is located 80 meters from the mausoleum.

The Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum is open daily from 8 AM to 8 PM, with an entry fee of 500 KZT. An English language audio guide is available for 1500 KZT, which I opted not to use, although it could have enhanced my understanding of the monuments. The Underground Mosque and Oriental Bath operate from 9 AM to 6 PM. I was told at the entrance of one of them that they required separate tickets, which I did not purchase, and thus only saw them from the outside.

The map of the mausoleum complex is below.

Karavan Saray

Opened in 2022, Karavan Saray is located next to the Khoja Akhmet Yasawi mausoleum, directly across the road. Historically, a “Karavan Saray” or Caravanserai served as rest stops providing shelter and food to wandering merchants and nomads across Central Asia. This modern incarnation houses a swanky hotel, various eating establishments, and shops. Enjoy a meal at Global Coffee, experience a 7D show on the history of Kazakhstan at the stunning Flying Theater (Altyn Samruk) for 6,500 KZT and 20 minutes, or have your photo taken in nomadic garb with a golden eagle on your arm in front of the theatre for 2,000 KZT for a small print, with digital copies provided. There are several more shops and entertainment areas to explore.

Other worthwhile stops are the Farab Library and the Drama Theater.

My time in Turkistan was memorable, and not just because of the stunning mix of ancient Silk Road wonders and modern, game-park-like opulence it presented.

The adventure started the night before, as I settled into the cab from Shymkent to Turkistan. Initially, the Russian-speaking driver was taken aback by both the hailer (a brown, lost-looking, dishevelled woman with a dusty backpack) and the destination, but later tried to make conversation with me. However, Google Translate struggled to do its job owing to the poor internet connection on the road. As we lapsed into silence, I sat in the cab, worrying that it was getting dark and it could well be that I was soon going to be left dying in the ditches beside these empty, unlit roads, because who knew who this man was, what he was thinking, and this is what I had been warned about in solo travel, yada, yada… In the end, I found comfort in the frequent phone calls from the driver’s wife and his animated explanations of why he was going out of town, that he wouldn’t make it for dinner, and how it was all Yandex’s fault. Each time he was done with his wife, he turned to me and tried to make conversation again. He mentioned Mithun Chakraborty, the Indian actor (I was treated to a mime of the actor crying). My forehead was pointed to ask about the bindi worn by Indian women. There were a few more questions. My response was to laugh awkwardly, not understanding most of it but eager to keep him in good humour. Thus passed three hours. After being dropped off, and while I was returning from the supermarket with the snacks I was going to call dinner, I spotted my driver coming out of a nearby Turkish restaurant. We waved to each other with enthusiasm. I am sure, like me, he too was strangely grateful for the strained company we kept during the past hours. We had grown fond of each other.

The start of the next morning in Turkistan was disconcerting. I woke up excited to wear the clothes I had leftover: flats, a cotton dress, and no jacket, as this was touted to be the warmest part of the country. But as soon as I left the house—and it’s remarkable how one doesn’t notice the temperature outside when inside, which is not usual in India—I realized it was raining heavily and was windy and cold. I rushed back inside, navigating through the reception of my B&B to pick up my backpack and get my jacket and shoes out. But I was still obstinate not to carry my rainproof warm jacket, as I was confident the rain would cease soon. However, the next three hours were my most miserable and cold on the whole trip. I waded against the rain, violently shivering, teeth chattering, cursing all the advice givers and weather predictors; until I reached the mausoleum, which was stunning, to say the least, and was making some beautiful silhouettes in the rain.

Despite the promise of beauty, the brief journey between the ticket counter and the mausoleum seemed destined to be traumatic. That is… until the audio guide chap took out his jacket and held it over my head, shielding me from the wind and rain until I reached inside. Then, more disappointment and schoolchildren awaited. I didn’t know where to look because they were all just stones and enclosures with sections still under construction, lacking any information on their significance. The grumpy schoolchildren were not pleased when I stepped over their legs, even though it should have served as a welcome distraction, given their clear lack of interest in the prayers being recited supposedly for their benefit. I sat with them, waiting for the rain to pass.

Eventually, it stopped, as it always does, and the sun shone through. The day unfolded into one of the most beautiful of my trip. That’s why I love to travel—you never know what you might find from one moment to the next.

A Week in Kazakhstan | The Perfect Itinerary | Ideal for solo travellers 

What to Eat

The Kazakh diet primarily includes meat and milk products. Deciphering menus in some places may be challenging. To ensure a safe and satisfying meal, I kept the following handy. Nauryz invites additional delicacies, not a part of this list.

Fermented drinks

• Shubat: A beverage fermented from camel’s milk.
• Kumis: A popular Kazakh drink made from fermented mare’s milk, sometimes with alcohol.
• Shalap: Another fermented yoghurt-based drink.

Breads

• Baursak: Puffy pieces of fried Kazakh bread, rich and filling.
• Shelpek and Naan: Bread varieties often served alongside main dishes.

Main meals

• Plov: The central Asian Pulau, a rice-based dish.
• Manti: Steamed dumplings filled with minced meat.
• Laghman: A hot broth made from long noodles, lean beef, and vegetables.
• Shurpa: A meat and vegetable soup. The meat is usually lamb, although some varieties use mutton, beef or chicken.
• Beshbarmak: Kazakhstan’s national dish, featuring boiled meat served with thin pasta sheets and a sauce (chyk) made from onions, meat broth, salt, and pepper. Horse and mutton are the common meats used.

If you, like me, enjoy visiting Soviet-occupied or influenced countries, check out my itineraries to Georgia, Serbia, and Romania.