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A 4 days Kathmandu Pokhara Nepal Itinerary from India | Easy and Comprehensive
Nepal is a landlocked country situated in the Himalayas, bordered by India, Tibet/ China, and Bangladesh. It has eight of the world’s ten tallest mountains, including Mount Everest. Hinduism is the main religion of the country. Kathmandu is its capital. It has a population of about 30 million.
A long weekend from India is enough to see the highlights of Nepal. The flight takes just shy of three hours from Mumbai. Indians do not require a visa, and prices for travellers from India-SAARC countries are heavily subsidized in all the major attractions. Most people can speak Hindi and they accept Indian currency everywhere. It was home away from home. If you have more time, simply add a trek from Pokhara.
Note: NPR is Nepali Rupee. At the time of this travel, 1 Indian Rupee was equal to 1.6 NPR.
About
Kathmandu
Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal. It is the largest city of Kathmandu Valley which comprises two other cities: Lalitpur (Patan) and Bhaktapur. The name Kathmandu is derived from Kasthamandap i.e., wood pavilion. This three-story structure (from the 16th century), made entirely of wood, used to stand in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square. It was destroyed in the April 2015 earthquake and is being renovated. Kathmandu City is home to about 14 lakh people and lies at an altitude of 1,400 metres (4,600 feet). The city has a multi-ethnic population with a Hindu and Buddhist majority.
Pokhara
Pokhara in central Nepal is the starting point of many popular Himalayan treks, in particular the Annapurna Circuit. It is home to the beautiful Fewa Lake and is also popular because of the range of adventure sports it offers: paragliding, bungee jumping, ultralight flights, you name it. Pokhara is a popular backpacker destination and is considered a trekkers’ gateway to the Himalayas. Fun fact: Pokhara is bigger than Kathmandu in terms of area. The distance between Kathmandu and Pokhara is 200 km. There are some exciting tours to take in Pokhara and most adventure seekers go for exactly that!
Where to Stay
In Kathmandu
Thamel is the tourist centre of the city where most hotels, hostels and casinos are located. I stayed at Kathmandu Suite Home which was fantastic (Right next to The Secret Garden and close to the beating heart of Thamel). Other inexpensive options are the Kathmandu Eco Hotel or Kumari Boutique Hotel. Most of the budget hotels in Thamel, especially on the main street, down their shutters by midnight which was a problem when we came back late at night. After 12, the streets do get rowdy, and a couple of the pubs are open until early morning, so the shutters are down, probably to discourage vandalism. Just know this and prepare your reception to expect you when you return.
In Pokhara
5th Street Lakeside is a popular place to stay with easy access to the lake and popular cafes and pubs around. I stayed at Pokhara Backpackers Hostel which was inexpensive and fabulous. The other highly rated backpacker hostel on the same lane is Kiwi Backpackers Hostel Pokhara which was quieter and looked fab, too. Since I was here on New Year’s Eve it worked out really well that I was in a hostel; at the centre of all the action.
And now for the 4-day Kathmandu Pokhara itinerary from India.
Day 1: Kathmandu Temple Trail
Sightseeing in Kathmandu is mostly all about temples. So why not finish them all in one day? The route you can take is as below:
Boudhanath Stupa > Guhyeshwari Shaktipeeth Temple > Pashupatinath Temple > Swayambhunath
A cab from Thamel to Boudhanath Stupa / Pashupatinath Temple costs 500 NPR. You will have to return to Thamel (assuming you’re staying there) to go to Swayambhunath. Thamel to Swayambhunath is a 30-minute walk or about 500 NPR by cab.
Boudhanath
Built in the 14th century, Boudhanath Stupa is one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal. The Buddha Eyes on it are massive and seem to follow you in every direction. The stupa is set on the ancient trade route from Tibet which enters the Kathmandu Valley. A lot of Tibetan monks (refugees who entered Nepal from Tibet in the 1950s) live in this area and have created gompas (Tibetan monasteries) around the stupa. Boudhanath is a UNESCO World Heritage site. On Friday afternoon, the area was bustling with people and activity. The circular area around the stupa is like a mini township with shops, cafes, restaurants, and lots and lots of disciples. You cannot enter the temple, only parts of it, but you can go around and click pictures or pray. It was a lot of fun.
Boudhanath Stupa is open 24 hours. Entry for Indians and other SAARC nationalities is 100 NPR and for foreigners, it is 400 NPR. It is free for Nepalese locals and children below 10 years of age.
From the Stupa, Guhyeshwari Temple is around a ten-minute walk.
Guhyeshwari Temple
A tiny but gorgeous temple located on the southern bank of the Bagmati River, Guhyeshwari is dedicated to Adi Shakti (The Goddess of cosmic energy) and is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas. The temple only allows entry to Hindus and is free to enter for them/ us.
Pashupatinath Temple
The Pashupatinath Temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and was classified as a World Heritage Site in 1979. It is located along the banks of the Bagmati River. The temple’s existence is recorded as early as 400 AD. The temple has a pagoda style of architecture with its two-level roofs made of copper with gold covering. Within the temple grounds lies Arya Ghat where the dead are cremated in the open (much like in Varanasi).
My experience inside was not too bad compared to the Hindu temples in India. It was crowded but well-managed. And the temple itself is quite stunning with intricate carvings, heavily embossed pillars and walls made of rosewood, silver and brass. There are a lot of monkeys here as well so do not carry any food that can be snatched.
The temple’s winter operating timings are 5 AM to 2 PM and 5 PM to 6 PM. Summer timings may differ. Plan to stay until the evening aarti, which takes place at 6:30 PM. Shoes need to be deposited at the entrance (free of charge). Only Hindus can enter the inner temple courtyard and entry is free for them. Photography is banned inside and is strictly enforced. The entry Fee is 1000 NPR for Foreigners – they can go to the cremation grounds and watch the aarti. They can also see the temple from the outside.
Next – to go to Swayambhunath you have to come back to Thamel since it is in the other direction.
Swayambhunath Temple
The name means either sublime trees or self-sprung. The temple complex consists of a stupa (with Buddha’s eyes and eyebrows painted on – a common theme in stupas across Nepal), several shrines and temples, a Tibetan monastery, a museum and a library. The complex is an important site for both Buddhists and Hindus.
It was a 30-minute walk from my hotel in Thamel. Once I reached the Burger House & Crunchy Fried Chicken, it was a climb of about 200 steep steps to reach the temple. A huge vajra (thunderbolt sceptre) greets you at the entrance.
And the moniker of Monkey Temple for Swayambhu is appropriate. There are COUNTLESS monkeys, more than even I imagined, popping up from everywhere. At night time though, most of them were asleep; watching that was a spectacle unto itself. Don’t carry any food because the monkeys will snatch it from you – sudden and ruthless.
Fun myth: These monkeys are supposed to be holy because Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom and learning, having grown his hair long, grew head lice, and it’s said these head lice transformed into monkeys. People will make stories to explain anything, won’t they?
Visiting Swayambhu at night was perhaps a smart idea. Most monuments or places of interest close by 6 PM in winter, but Swayambhu is open 24/7. The temple was stunning with huge intricate stupas, mandapas, and statues. The climb up the hill had already warmed me up, but I also had a small cup of lemon tea, which was refreshing and cost 12 NPR. Entry from where I entered was free. But when I exited through the main entrance I realized there was an entry fee (50 NPR for Indians/ SAARC and 200 NPR for foreigners).
There are some exciting tours to be done in both Kathmandu. Don’t leave without doing them!Kathmandu to Pokhara
Kathmandu to Pokhara can be reached by taking an 8-hour bus journey, a 5+ hour car journey or a 30-minute flight. Guess which I chose?
I flew Yeti Air. It was in an ATR 72-500 and comfortable enough. Cost me around 7000 NPR return (INR 4500/50 USD) but it was also New Year’s weekend and mine was a last-minute booking—so fares might be cheaper at other times. Apparently, the airfares for foreigners are nearly double this but I understand this will soon change. **Update: Just 2 weeks after writing this article, a Yeti Aeroplane on the same route met with a fatal crash. I’m no longer sure if flying in Nepal is safe **
Tourist buses leave at 7 AM and 8 AM from Kathmandu daily, from Kantipath, near Thamel Street. The prices for these buses range widely.
Day 2: Pokhara
Fewa Lake > Shanti Stupa > Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave > Davi’s Falls
Fewa Lake
Fewa or Phewa Lake is the second largest lake in Nepal and has an area of 5.7 square kilometres. It is located at an altitude of 742 m (2,434 feet). The lake is stream-fed but a dam regulates the water reserves, therefore, the lake is classified as a semi-natural freshwater lake. It is surrounded by picturesque mountains and thick foliage. Brightly coloured boats can be hired on the shore for lake rides, a visit to the Tal Barahi temple, or to go to the starting point of the hike for the Shanti Stupa. The lake is also famous for the reflection of Mount Machhapuchhre and other mountain peaks on its surface, which you can see on a clear day.
I did the 30-minute boat ride from Fewa Lakeshore to go to the drop-off point for the Shanti Stupa hike. The one-way fare for the boat ride is 800 NPR. A cab will charge 1000-1200 NPR to take you one way. From the drop-off point, it’s a 45-minute hike to the World Peace Stupa. It’s an easy-moderate hike which may get troublesome during the rains because the route is made up of stone steps and may cause slipping.
Shanti Stupa
Nepal has two of the eighty peace pagodas in the world. One is in Lumbini, and the other is in Pokhara. The (shanti) peace stupa in Pokhara was built by Japanese Buddhist monks in the 1970-the 90s. The pagoda is 115 feet tall and 344 feet in diameter and tourists can circumambulate around its perimeter to see the carvings and the four massive statues of Lord Buddha in various poses. On a clear day, the structure provides a panoramic view of the Annapurna range, Pokhara City, and Fewa Lake. Entry is free. The monument is open from 4:30 AM to 6 PM. It is supposed to be a peaceful place but honestly, I found the hike to the top more peaceful and panoramic than the monument itself. The place was teeming with noisy, photo-obsessed people, and the noise from road traffic carried up.
Other Attractions: Statues and Caves
From the Shanti Stupa you can also hike or take a cab up to the massive 108-foot Pumdikot Shiva Statue located nearby (you can see the statue from the Shanti Stupa). The place has a viewpoint at an altitude of 1,500 meters above sea level and has the second-tallest statue of Shiva in Nepal.
On your way back to Pokhara city, you will cross Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave and Davi’s Falls. Discovered in 1950, Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave is the longest cave (over 2000 meters) in Nepal. The water from Davi’s fall passes through this cave. There is no need to separately go to Davi’s Falls which I gathered was less than impressive apart from during the monsoons. The cab from Shanti Stupa back to Pokhara cost us 1500 NPR which included a visit to these monuments.
Other caves you can check out are: Mahendra Cave, Bats’ Cave, and Crystal Cave.
Day 3: Pokhara
Sunrise at Sarangkot
Sarangkot is a 35-40 minute cab ride from Pokhara and costs about 2500 NPR for a round-trip visit from Pokhara. The viewpoints from the town provide splendid views of the Pokhara area and the Annapurna Mountain range. I was unfortunate to go on a cloudy day, but I’ve seen photos of friends who’ve gone on a clear day and they are stunning. Definitely make the trip, and if possible, stay overnight (at a place like Temple Tree Resort. See the view from its terrace below).
If not staying overnight, it costs 60 NPR to go to the watchtower (which was less than impressive. Parts of it were under construction). There is also a temple on the premises.
The Annapurna Cable Car also does trips to Sarangkot. Sarangkot is also a para-gliding and ziplining hotspot.
The other sunset/ sunrise points around Pokhara are Thulakot, Kahun Hill, Naudanda, and Ramkot.
On your way back, you can visit one of the notable Pokhara museums such as the International Mountain Museum (recommended), Gorkha Museum, the Annapurna Butterfly Museum, or go to the Tashi Ling Tibetan Village on the other side.
Day 4: Kathmandu
We are back in Kathmandu today, having taken a late flight from Pokhara on Day 3. This was essential so that I was back in the city to take the flight home the day later. Overall, I found the sandwiching of 2 days in Pokhara in between 2 days of hectic Kathmandu sightseeing quite efficient.
The Garden of Dreams
The Garden of Dreams, a neo-classical historical garden, is situated amid Kathmandu city. You can visit it on the way to Durbar Square. But to me, it was a disappointment. I paid 400 NPR to enter (for all foreigners, no distinction for Indians) and it turned out to be a small garden with a few installations – paved perimeter paths, pavilions, trellises, pergolas, a couple of theatres and seating areas – not too different from a neighbourhood luxurious garden. It wasn’t worth the entry fee I paid, given also that both the café and the pub were non-operational. The place was filled with locals whose entry fee was 150 NPR. The garden is probably a good respite from the city heat and traffic. But overall I wouldn’t recommend putting this on your itinerary. Winter timings were 9 AM to 5:30 PM (last entry).
Durbar Square
Nepal has three Durbar Squares in the three cities of the Kathmandu Valley: Kathmandu-Basantapur, Patkan, and Bhaktapur. All three are UNESCO World Heritage Sights. The other two Durbar Squares are located outside Kathmandu and require time to go. I only visited Kathmandu Durbar Square.
At one time, the Kathmandu Durbar Square held the palaces of the Malla and Shah kings who ruled over the city. It was a fascinating square full of spectacular architecture and sculptures in the palaces, temples, and various courtyards. Several buildings in the square collapsed due to a major earthquake on 25 April 2015.
All of Durbar Square was part of the royal palace until 1896. Even now, some royal ceremonies are performed here. Most of the square dates from the 15th century but some temples are said to be as old as the 3rd century. Notable temples/ icons inside Basantapur Durbar Square are Kal Bhairav, the Hanuman statue, Jagannath Temple, Maju Dega Temple, and the 16th-century Mahendreswara Temple. The last point you will go to is the Kumari Ghar where Kathmandu’s living goddess lives. A Kumari is selected from the Nepalese Newari Buddhist community after matching 32 criteria (perfections of a goddess). She begins her reign at three years old, living with the official Kumari caretakers for eight years, before returning to an anonymous suburban life. She shows up at the window of her home occasionally and sporadically. We were not lucky.
A guide cost us 300 NPR for an hour-long tour. You will find one hovering around the entrance fee counter. It is well worth taking one here since you will get lost inside the sprawling complex.
Timings are 9 AM to 5 PM. The entry fee is 150 NPR for Indians and SAARC Nationals and 1000 NPR for foreigners.
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Thamel Street
Thamel is a bustling network of narrow streets filled with hotels, restaurants, pubs, clubs, travel agencies, grocery stores, and curio shops. It wasn’t as bad as I was told (bad traffic, pollution, crowded, heckling, etc.), probably because I am from India. I felt completely at home.
Thamel at night is quite something else. The whole of Kathmandu falls asleep, but Thamel is awake, alive, and full of people. Pubs and cafes in Thamel are open until late at night, too. There are casinos close by as well, which makes for an interesting night out. Most require a strict dress code and passports to enter. Some options we tried are (Bally’s next to Hotel Malla, Casino Anna at Hotel Annapurna, Mahjong at Soaltee, and Deltin at Marriott).
Purple Haze and Pub Hop
There are probably many such live music venues across the world, but Purple Haze in Kathmandu stands out in terms of the quality of local bands and the fact that it is an excellent introduction to local music. The venue is great, with multi-tiered seating, a large dance floor, and inexpensive drinks. Located strategically in Thamel, the cherry on the cake is no entry fee during weekdays (weekends too, maybe, but I didn’t check). The street itself is home to many great pubs. Sam’s and The Secret Garden are others. Quirky, with cheap drinks, here you can probably meet other trekkers and budget travellers. Most places also have happy hours between 4 PM to 7 PM, applicable for cocktails. A Thamel Street pub hop, and a visit to Purple Haze, is a must-do while in Kathmandu.
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Good to Know
Transport from the airport
Kathmandu Airport
Prepaid taxis ply from Kathmandu’s international airport but not from the domestic airport (There was a decrepit prepaid counter outside which didn’t even have published rates). From the international airport to Thamel a prepaid cab charges 700 NPR but outside or in the city you can bargain it down to 600 NPR. In the domestic airport, it’s a bit trickier. Cabs start their quote from 900 NPR. Taking the free shuttle to the Golden Gate and taking a cab for 600 NPR or less is best.
Pokhara Airport
For domestic flights (ex. Kathmandu to Pokhara) you need to reach about one hour before. The security check is fairly quick, especially for females. Occasionally, the flights get delayed, and the queues at the check-in counter can get long. From the new airport to the main street costs anywhere between 500-600 NPR, much like in Kathmandu. When I went, the new international airport had just opened (3rd Jan), and there were no prepaid cabs operational. That situation may have changed now.
Transport within the City
Kathmandu
Cabs are available aplenty but they don’t usually ply by the meter. As a thumb rule, it costs around 500 NPR for a 6-7 km distance. You can also hire a motorbike to go around. Motorbike rentals in Kathmandu: Costs 1500 NPR/day to 2500 NPR/day depending on the type of motorbike. Look up www.bsmotorbike.com. Babu Raja Mahajan ([email protected]) They are located at Swayambhu Marg opposite Paradise Banquet.
Pokhara
We walked to most places. It’s a fairly small town. But the cabs work the same way as in Kathmandu. And hiring a Scooty at the hostel cost us 1500 NPR/day.
Currency Exchange
Indian currency is accepted in most places and the change is returned in NPR. There are plenty of exchanges everywhere that offer attractive exchange rates. At the time of this trip. INR converted to 1.6 NPR.
SIM Card
There is an NCell counter as soon as you exit the airport. This counter accepts Indian currency but only 100 rupee notes. Do not buy your SIM card from here. Instead, just exit the gate and you will see another Ncell counter a few steps away (and a few other options). Purchase your SIM card and top up from there instead. The second one accepts all currencies and cards. I have no clue why there are two of them so close to one another, one accepting Indian currency and the other not. They also seemed to have slightly different plans and rates.
Food
Good coffee in Kathmandu is available in plenty and is of awesome quality. Even a roadside store would have a coffee machine and the best coffee. The most delicious coffee I had in Katmandu was in Himalayan Java, along with their sumptuous breakfast. In Pokhara, the best coffee I had was in one of the small cafes at the foot of the stairs of the Shanti Stupa. Organic, freshly ground, and delicious.
Another cuisine to try out is the Thakali thalis which is a platter with a combination of dal, rice, veggies, meat, sweet curd, chutney, etc. Try the Pokhara Thakali Kitchen on 6th Street, Central Lakeside, Pokhara. Sekuwa is also a popular dish. And of course, there are momo, chowmein, Thukpa etc. which are always great to have, especially on a cold winter night.
Alternative Activities
A Day Trip from Kathmandu
From Kathmandu, you can head to Nagarkot (30 km away) to catch the sunrise or the sunset on the Himalayan Mountain Range. A private cab will charge about 3500-4000 NPR. The whole experience will take around 2-3 hours. You can add a visit to the Bhaktapur and Patan Durbar squares, and the Chandragiri Cable Car to make it a full-day outstation tour from Kathmandu.
Adventure Sports
Adventure sports are popular in Nepal. Himalayan Single Track organizes motorbike tours and trekking from Kathmandu and Pokhara. Fly Pokhara organizes ultralight tours in Pokhara. Pokhara Backpackers Hostel can help organize paragliding and sunrise yoga tours.
There are some exciting tours to be done in both Kathmandu and Pokhara. Do the Everest Base Camp Helicopter Tour and food tour for sure!
More Asia itineraries: Vietnam, Cambodia, Oman
- First, I go to TripAdvisor and check out top things to do, top places, and experiences. I use this to make a rough itinerary.
- From TripAdvisor I often go to Viator to book day tours. I love their user friendly platform and flexible cancellation policies. Compare their offers with GetYourGuide, which is great too.
- I book my accommodations in Booking because of their flexibility and that the bookings are easily cancellable. The mobile app is great and the genius discounts are on point.
- I recommend getting the Priority Pass. It gives you access to airport lounges and has helped me through many long waits. It’s definitely well worth the money.
- And I am literally always on Skyscanner. I get to see the best airfares, and the airline / third party providers offering them. Try the “From: origin city” to “To: Everywhere” option to ignite your imagination on where to travel to next.