4 Days in Amalfi Coast and Around | The Perfect Itinerary

Here is an easy to do four-day-itinerary for Amalfi Coast and the places around. Go to Naples, Salerno, Pompeii, Amalfi, Capri, Positano, and the nearby islands easily and for cheap!

Amalfi Coast

Next time someone asks me for honeymoon ideas—err—in terms of where to go—I would wholeheartedly recommend Amalfi Coast. Not only because it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also because it’s truly one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen. Besides, I cannot help the fondness that springs to my heart for everything Italian. There are just too many similarities between us (Indians) and them (Italians). We are as loud, garrulous and argumentative. The men are as bound to their mother’s apron strings (mi dispiace, but I’d to say it). We love to eat and gossip, and although the traffic can be erratic, the food and the people are warm and wholesome. During my stay in Salerno, Mama Manzo, the proprietor’s mother, (erroneously) noticed how famished I looked and generously showered me with everything she had in her kitchen. Every day, I enjoyed a sumptuous meal that truly captured the essence of Italy. One of the things I love about Italy is how they express love through food. They will feed you until tears run down your face. Mangia, Mangia.

But let’s start at the beginning.

About

The Amalfi Coast is a picturesque region located in the southern part of Italy, along the coastline of the Sorrentine Peninsula. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and known for its stunning beauty and cultural significance. The Coast stretches for 50 kilometres (30 miles) along the Tyrrhenian Sea, from the town of Positano in the west to Vietri sul Mare in the east. It is characterised by steep cliffs, lush greenery, and charming coastal towns. The coast gets its name from the town of Amalfi, which was a major maritime power in the Middle Ages and played a crucial role in trade and commerce in the Mediterranean. The Amalfi Coast is also famous for its terraced lemon groves. These massive lemons are used to make limoncello, a traditional Italian liqueur. Oh! And it is YUM.

When to Go

If you’re planning a visit to Amalfi, keep in mind that it can get very crowded. To avoid that, the best time to go is during the fringe months of March to May, or, August to October. However, if you don’t mind the crowds and are looking for a livelier atmosphere, then you should plan your trip in the summer months of June and July. During this time, Amalfi is at its absolute best with festivals, concerts, and street markets. Just be aware that prices will be higher during these months.

Where to Go

The map below shows all the cities touched as part of this itinerary. Almost all of the trip was done cheap: staying in Airbnbs or small hotels and travelling by train. I also did the trip entirely solo.

 

4 Days in Amalfi Coast | Cheap and Easy | The Perfect Itinerary for Solo Travellers

Day 1: Naples > Salerno

You must have landed in Rome ? Take a train and go to Naples. Our first destination is Salerno, but we do need to tick Naples off the list. The Naples International Airport (NAP), is also the closest airport to Amalfi coast, about an hour’s drive away.

Naples

About

Italy’s third largest city, Naples, is situated in a breathtaking natural setting, with the iconic grey cone of Mt. Vesuvius on one side and the deep blue waters of the Golfo di Napoli on the other. Most trains from Rome stop at Naples and then move on to Salerno. I did not enjoy Naples much and would advise no more than 3-4 hours here if you are short on time overall.

Things to do

• Stroll along Centro Storico or the Old Town
• Stroll along Via Toledo, a 1.2 km long street that is one of the most important shopping districts in the city
• Visit the Cathedral of Naples, a medieval cathedral featuring the remains of an Early Christian basilica, several famous artworks, and the miraculous blood of San Gennaro
• Eat a Napoli pizza at Via Tribunali or a Margherita at L’antica Pizzeria da Michele (of Eat, Pray, Love fame)
• Eat a sfogliatella at Sfogliatella Mary

Here’s a 48 hours in Naples itinerary, if you plan to spend longer.

Having ticked Naples off your list, let’s now move on to the more interesting portion of the trip.

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Salerno

About

Salerno is a city located in the Campania region of southern Italy. In the 9th century, Salerno was home to one of the most renowned medical schools in Europe, the Schola Medica Salernitana, where scholars and physicians from different cultures converged to exchange knowledge. During the Middle Ages, the city became an important maritime centre and was ruled by Lombards and Normans, contributing to its economic and political significance in the region. Salerno played a crucial role during World War II as the site of the Allied landings in Operation Avalanche in September 1943. Overall, the city’s strategic location on the Tyrrhenian Sea has historically made it a significant port for trade and maritime activities.

Why Salerno and not Sorrento

It was a debate in my mind to stay in Sorrento or Salerno, but after loads of research, I decided Salerno it was. For primary reasons:

• It is cheaper
• It is connected to Rome by a direct train (at least this was the case when I went)
• It has frequent ferries to all the Amalfi islands and Capri (routes are active April-October)
• It has a beautiful promenade and church
• It is underrated and thus, has a lower number of tourists
• Did I mention it was cheaper?

If you still want to make Sorrento your base, read how to plan here.

What to See

• Duomo di Salerno or the Salerno Cathedral is beautiful and majestic. Built in the 11^th century, it is dedicated to Saint Matthew. Free entry. Visiting hours here.
• Gardens of Minerva: Salerno is home to the oldest botanic garden in Europe, known as the Gardens of Minerva, which was founded in the 14th century.
• Lungomare di Salerno or Salerno’s beautiful promenade which, on a sunny day, is a great place to relax, the Italian way. Along the promenade are piazzas with gorgeous fountains and statues. Or you could go to the Salerno harbour to check out the busy port
• See the spectacular view of Salerno from Arechi Castle. Take bus 19 up the hill from the city and buy the return ticket beforehand at the tabacchi (local tobacco shop/grocer). Entrance is €3 (adults). Castle timings are 9 a.m. – 5 p.m (Closed on Mondays). Buses to and fro are 2 or more hours apart, so do this if you have time to spare. You can also take a cab up.
• Check out the ruins of Paestum, which is an hour away by train
• Salerno Artistic Lights: Every year, Salerno hosts an event called “Luci d’Artista” (Artistic Lights), where the city is adorned with illuminated art installations, attracting tourists and locals alike.

Where to Stay

Salerno Centro. Look no further.

Actually, I made this cute little B&B my stop for all 4 days. But I recommend staying at Capri or Ravello/ Positano at least for one night to see the beachfront light up and not feel pressed to return.

How to Reach

I traveled from Roma Termini to Salerno on an overnight “Espresso” train, which proved to be safe and convenient, albeit quite basic. However, it’s worth noting that trains with names like “Regionale,” “Diretto,” and “Espresso” are designed to stop at every small town with a train station, making them slower than the regular trains. If you’re looking for a faster option, consider using Trenitalia or ITALO. See your options here.

Now you’ve completed the Naples and Salerno part of the 4 Days in Amalfi Coast tour. Let’s move on to Pompeii.

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Day 2: Pompeii

About

Pompeii used to be one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire and a popular place for Romans to live in, both rich and poor. But what ultimately gave the town its eternal allure is DEATH. In the summer of AD 79, the city of Pompeii was almost completely buried under lapilli (rock fragments formed by lava spray) caused by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius which killed many of the residents. You can still see casts of people killed within the ancient site, which is gory, to say the least.

Why should you go to Pompeii? Well, because, read this:

24th August, Hottest day of the month in 79 AD

In a few seconds, all the Gods will hurl themselves down, together with Hermes of the powerful, bronze candlesticks, busts of the emperor, statues of the Lares, images of the Penates (Household Gods).

At the end of Via Dell’Abbondanza near the fountain, men and women were rushing around confusedly gesticulating and shouting as they stared at Vesuvius. The summit had disappeared as if swallowed by the earth, and in its place rose an enormous tongue of fire. The mountain had gone mad.

Shudders.

Dramatic, isn’t it? Don’t you want to see what it is all about?

Pompeii was rediscovered in the 18th century, revealing a remarkably well-preserved glimpse into Roman civilisation. Pompeii is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting millions of visitors annually. Its ruins provide invaluable insights into ancient urban planning, customs, and architecture. The plaster casts of human and animal remains left behind by the eruption evoke the tragic human toll of the catastrophic event, making Pompeii an unparalleled archaeological treasure. A must visit.

How to See

A combined ticket for Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis, and Boscoreale costs €22.00 for an adult and is valid for one entry to each site over a period of three consecutive days (and free on first Sunday of the month, if you can time it). Along with the ticket, you also get a free map and a guidebook. I have to tell you though, the place is overwhelming in its grandeur and you might want to take an actual human guide  with you (available at the entrance) to see it better. Take a tour, like this one.

Timings: From 1st April to 31st October the site is open 9.00 – 7.30 p.m. (with last entrance at 6 p.m.). Other times, the site closes at 5 p.m. with last entry at 3:30 p.m.

Some trivia: Pompeii’s source of prosperity was Garum, or fish sauce. Made from rotted, fermented fish guts, Pompeii served the demands of the entire Roman empire. So, you can imagine the money made.

But really, more fascinating to me was seeing the vestiges of the practice of the oldest tradition in the world—the brothels at Pompeii. Tiny rooms with stone beds and lewd pictures on the walls to function as a ‘service menu’. Quite fascinating. Read more on the brothels or Lupanar (Wolf Den) at Pompeii.

The walk back from Pompeii Scavi to Stazione was quite painful with the sun on my face and not less than three men following me at different times, stopping by to say something in Italian and gesturing to sit with them in their car/bike. But the day ended well, back in Salerno, where I had my first taste of Limoncello, which—what can I say—is probably one of the best drinks I’ve ever had. Tad sweet sometimes, but the tangy vodka gives such a head rush. That and some nice sandwiches at Macondo close to Piazza Portanova.

Mucho Buono!

Where to Stay

Come back to Salerno.

If you can’t and would prefer to be at Pompeii, stay at Hotel Forum. Great value for money and right next to the ruins. Nights start at USD 70.

How to Reach

Trains run from Salerno to La Stazione di Pompei from which Pompeii Scavi or the ruins is a 20-minute walk. No need to buy tickets in advance. Buy at the station.

We are through with the Naples, Salerno, and Pompeii parts of the 4 day Amalfi Coast Trip. The more picturesque bits are coming up.

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Day 3: Capri

“There is no spot in the world with such delightful possibilities of repose as this little isle” Charles Dickens in Capri.

About

Capri is an island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, off the Sorrentine Peninsula in Italy. It attracts visitors for its natural beauty, Mediterranean climate, and picturesque landscapes. Notable landmarks in Capri include the Blue Grotto and Villa Jovis. Capri has long been a favourite destination for artists, writers, and intellectuals. The island has been mentioned in literature and mythology. It offers stunning views, hiking opportunities, and a spirited social scene.

Anacapri is a town on the island of Capri, located at a higher elevation than the main town. It is known for its scenic views and historical sites, such as Villa San Michele and the Church of San Michele. To go from Capri to Anacapri, visitors can take a public bus, taxi, or walk along a scenic path called Via Migliera. The journey offers stunning vistas of the surrounding landscapes. Many tourists choose to visit Anacapri to explore its tranquil atmosphere, cultural attractions, and escape the crowds of the more bustling Capri town.

What to See

I will reiterate – Capri is drop-dead beautiful! Narrow lanes open onto surprising expanses; a deluge of flowers flank cobbled pathways; a pristine white Duomo hovers over surrounded by hordes of designer stores, high-end spas, granita corners, and ensconced in them, Roman remains. I could spend days in its many bars and cafés, sipping sweet limoncello and spying on the holidaying glitterati walking past me.

“The grapevine on the rocks, the cracks in the musk, the walls that ensnare the clinging plants, the plinth of flowers and stone: the island is the lyre that was placed on the melodious height and chord by chord played by lights since remote times its voice.” Pablo Neruda.

On the other hand, Anacapri is a pristine, white Christian-ess. It boasts Moorish settings, surrounded by olive groves, vineyards, and garden terraces overlooking the Mediterranean. It’s an island of idleness, perfect for taking leisurely walks on the curvy white paved roads. The roads are full of flowers and offer jaw-dropping views of the sea. I had my first taste of Italian Lasagna Bolognese here. Some delicious pizza too.

How to Reach

From Salerno’s Molo Manfredi dock, take the morning ferry to Capri Islands (if it’s summertime and they are running, else take the SITABUS). The journey from Molo Manfredi dock to Capri takes about 2 hours over picturesque waters. It costs ~18 Euros one way (at the time of writing this). The ferry also stops at Amalfi Town and Positano. The trip along the coast is dotted with delightful little islands, colourful houses perched on top in layers within the mountains.

Traveling to Capri by waterways is the best and most enjoyable way to reach the island. However, there is one drawback to this mode of transportation: the last ferry to return from Capri departs at 4:30 p.m. As someone who has been to Capri, I can attest that this is an incredibly short amount of time to spend on the island. After the ferry drops you at Marina Grande, buy another EUR 2 bus ticket to go to Capri. You can also take a funicular or walk to reach Capri. Here is a link to know how to get around in Capri.

Capri to Anacapri is 1 hour of walking uphill. Or you can take a bus that takes 15 minutes and costs EUR 2 one way.

While returning from Anacapri, take the Phoenician steps (922 steps, begins at Axel Munthe’s Villa-Villa San Michele) down to Marina Grande. The views en route are quite spectacular. Takes 30-45 minutes but to be done only if you are fit enough. The steps are very steep.

Where to Stay

Staying in Capri is expensive, because of which I returned to Salerno. Overnight stay is USD 100 +. If you can spend, I wholly recommend doing an overnight stay. To Be Capri and Apollo B&B are reasonably priced options.

 

And now to the crowning jewels of the 4 day Amalfi Coast Trip.

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Day 4: Amalfi coast

About

Stretching for 50 kilometres along the southern edge of Italy’s Campania region, the Amalfi Coast is a rugged coastline that beckons hikers and nature enthusiasts. The coast is traversed by the Strada Statale 163, a scenic coastal road known as the Amalfi Drive, that offers breathtaking views of the coastline. The Amalfi Coast is a popular destination for visitors from around the world who come to soak in its natural beauty, enjoy its coastal lifestyle, and explore its historical sites. About only 5000 people live in the Amalfi coast!

What to See

The coast is made up of the following towns.

• Amalfi
• Praiano
• Minori
• Maiori
• Ravello
• Positano
• Cetara

Amalfi is crowded and touristy. There are lots of knick-knacks to buy and a lovely town square with a towering church to see. But do not spend much time here, unless your goal is to people-watch.

The rest—Praiano, Minori, Maiori—are quieter towns. Inhabited mostly by residents; the kinds who would not lose an opportunity to sun themselves and their kids out on a fine day. A good place to laze, sip coffee, read a book and watch the world on a sunny day. By the way, Maiori features the longest beach of the Amalfi coast.

Driving from the West, Positano is the first town you’ll come across on the Amalfi Coast. After Amalfi, it is the next best-known stop along the coast. It is a postcard-perfect beach town, but also expensive. Spend a few hours sipping limoncello at Ristorante da Costantino.

But my favourite town was Ravello—quaint, tiny, oozing with old world charm, with a lovely town centre, a gorgeous church, and plentiful bistros. It is situated about 5 km uphill from Amalfi. The Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone offer some great panoramic views of the Amalfi coast. In Ravello, I took close to a hundred snaps in several different angles and positions in a vain attempt to capture the absolute drop-dead beauty of the place. Failed, failed, failed. Surrounded by such absolute beauty and plentiful limoncello, I might have never left. The ferry though…

You can do a guided walking tour in Ravello.

Oh! Even as you are reading this and planning to go, I envy you.

Where to Stay

The nights can be quite magical, with the flickering lights on the coast, a vast expanse of sparkling black sea and yachts dotting the far skyline. Stay at Ravello or Positano. Details at the end of the blog.

How to Reach

Take a ferry from Salerno to Amalfi (if they are running, else take the SITABUS). Once you reach Amalfi, take the hop-on-hop-off bus to take you to the island of your choosing. I especially loved the music they played on the bus. The bus starts from Sorrento but stops on all the Amalfi islands.

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Other tips

For train tickets: Venere and Trenitalia to book. Seat 61 for general information on trains in Italy

For bus tickets SITABUS

Ferry tickets Ferry connections from Salerno

Best itineraries Walks of Italy

Random tip: I paid close to 16 Euros to get from the Rome’s Fiumicino Airport to Termini through the Leonardo Express which though convenient was expensive. Take the Terravision Bus for about 4-6 Euros. They have fixed timings and shuttles close at ~11 p.m.