Four Days in Bhutan | Paro, Thimphu, Punakha

Day 1: Paro to Thimpu

(54 km; 1.5 hours)

Pema and Sonam arrived at Paro Airport with smiling faces, dressed in their traditional brightly checked ghos, and holding khatas—white welcome scarves featuring the eight lucky signs—which they ceremoniously placed around our necks. This warm welcome was the harbinger of pleasant times to come.

Now, we were set to be driven from Paro to Thimphu, a journey that would take 1.5 to 2 hours, with stops along the way.

The stops were:

The confluence of the Rivers and the Three Stupas: Close to the airport, located near the village of Chuzom, we passed by the confluence of two rivers, the Thimphu Chhu and the Paro Chhu. The confluence is marked by three distinctive stupas that represent Bhutan’s ties with three major Buddhist traditions: Tibetan, Nepali, and Bhutanese. These stupas, as Pema explained, were to ward away evil spirits, which often turn up at such a confluence (or something like that).

Next, we went to the Memorial Chorten in Thimphu.

Memorial Chorten: The Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, also known as the Thimphu Chorten, is one of Bhutan’s most prominent religious landmarks. Built in 1974, it was constructed in memory of Bhutan’s third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, often referred to as the “Father of Modern Bhutan.” Unlike typical stupas that contain relics, the Memorial Chorten does not house the king’s remains. Instead, it serves as a symbolic monument dedicated to world peace. It features a large white structure with a golden spire and intricate carvings and paintings inside that reflect Vajrayana Buddhist beliefs. The third floor has a massive Buddha idol which can be glimpsed from the courtyard.

When we visited the Memorial Chorten, it was buzzing with activity. The auspicious days of Dashain (Dussehra) and the birthday of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) had coincided, drawing in a crowd of devotees and curious visitors. Free food was being served, and we were tempted to join in but soon learned that one had to bring a plate to participate.

The entry fee to the Memorial Chorten is 500 Nu, which seemed a bit high, but it’s likely used for the chorten’s maintenance and to support the government’s free programs, so I guess it was okay. In any case, it was perfect for people-watching that day, making it worthwhile for us.

Inside, the Buddha idols were impressive, and we even caught some monks practising their trumpets, trying to mimic a tune from one of their mobile phones. Times have changed, haven’t they? Every monk I met seemed glued to his phone!

We perhaps need the Future Buddha to come now and help mend our modern ways. Who is he you ask? The Future Buddha, also known as Maitreya, is supposed to show up when everyone’s forgotten about our current Buddha, Shakyamuni, and the world is in a bit of a mess. Interestingly, in Maitreya’s time, people are predicted to be pint-sized, living just about ten years. I would totally watch a movie made on this.

After the visit to the Memorial Chorten, we had lunch, and then headed to the Guru Dordenma Statue, or the Statue of the Giant Buddha.

Guru Dordenma Statue: The Guru Dordenma Statue in Thimphu is a colossal bronze statue of Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, who is revered as the Second Buddha. Standing at an impressive 169 feet, it ranks among the largest Buddha statues in the world. Inside the statue, there are over 100,000 smaller Buddha statues, each crafted from bronze and gilded in gold. Completed in 2015, the main statue overlooks the Thimphu Valley and serves as a symbol of peace and prosperity. It is perched atop a meditation hall, where devotees and tourists can enjoy a serene atmosphere and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.

We were thoroughly impressed by the Giant Buddha statue outside and the rich, intricate interiors. It was creative, colourful, and calming. Entry is free.

As it was Dassain, we also visited a Hindu Temple, the only one in Thimphu. My mother was delighted to have the place to herself, a rarity in India.

As we wandered through the monasteries, we kept spotting different representations of the Three Buddhist Poisons. These are the emotions that are thought to fuel all our suffering. First up, Ignorance: basically not getting how things really work. It’s the root of confusion and fear and makes us act in all the wrong ways. Then there’s Greed: that never-ending thirst for more stuff, power, or pleasure. It drives selfishness, and jealousy, and leaves you feeling like it’s never enough. Lastly, Anger: the bubbling up of hostility or resentment that makes people lash out, get aggressive, and wreak havoc. The monks sure know how to remind you of the emotional traps we all fall into!

We stayed overnight at Phuntsho Khangsar Hotel which was a great stay. This hotel offered stunning views. Our room, 202, overlooked the city, and we could see the large Buddha statue from our bed each morning, shimmering grandly at night. It also featured a great balcony. The food was delicious, but you need to specifically request local dishes, as they provide Indian cuisine by default. The staff was incredibly polite. Overall, it’s a lovely hotel in Thimphu, and I highly recommend staying here. They also assist with organizing tours.

Other places to visit in and around Thimphu include the National Library, the Traditional Medicine Institute, the National Textile Museum, the Takin Preserve, Coronation Park, the local market, and the Chukha Hydroelectric Power Plant.

Day 2: Thimpu to Punakha

(77 km; 3 hours)

On this day, we left Thimphu and headed toward Punakha. Our first stop was Dochu La Pass.

Dochu La Pass

Dochu La is a mountain pass located at 3,100 meters (10,200 ft) on the road between Thimphu and Punakha. It is famous for the 108 memorial chortens, known as the “Druk Wangyal Chortens,” built by the eldest Queen Mother. The pass is adjacent to Bhutan’s first Royal Botanical Park. To the east, visitors can see the snow-covered Himalayan peaks, including Mt. Masanggang (7,194 meters/23,602 ft) and Mt. Gangkar Puensum, the highest peak in Bhutan at 7,570 meters (24,836 ft) on a non-misty day (usually during December/January). Gangkar Puensum is an unscaled peak, as the Bhutanese government has prohibited climbing it due to its sacred status.

The chortens create a picturesque setting for photos. There is a café and restroom on the opposite side of the road from the chortens, making it a popular stop for tourists, although it can get crowded. The weather is typically foggy and chilly.

In the second half, we visited the Punakha Dzong.

Punakha Dzong

Punakha Dzong, also known as the Punakha Fortress, is one of Bhutan’s most impressive structures, situated at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers. Constructed in 1637 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, it served as the country’s administrative centre until the capital was moved to Thimphu in 1955.

The dzong is an architectural marvel of traditional Bhutanese design. It is notable for its grand assembly hall and intricate woodwork. As our guide, Pema put it repeatedly, with sufficient reverence: “Punakha Dzong is the country’s second oldest dzong and the most impressive. Just wait to see it and you will be amazed.”

The Punakha Dzong or “the palace of great happiness”, is the second oldest and second-largest dzong in Bhutan and one of its most majestic structures. It is a six-storey structure with beautifully intricate stone and timber-based architecture. The dzong has three docheys (courtyards). The northern yard is where all the administrative functions take place. The second courtyard is for the monks. The third courtyard is the most important of all as it houses the main temple and national treasures. The insides of the main temple were a sight to behold, and our hands itched as there was so much beauty around and we couldn’t take any pictures.

The Punakha Dzong serves as the alternate seat for the Bodhi Monastery during winter due to its lower altitude and warmer climate (The primary seat for the Bodhi Monastery in Bhutan is the Sangha Choling Monastery, located in Thimphu). The Punakha Dzong is not only an architectural marvel but also holds the remains of Zhabdrung, the founder of Bhutan’s unified state. His chamberlain is appointed each year to oversee his memorial. The fortress houses the remains of Zhabdrung, along with some of his personal belongings; however, these items are generally not accessible to visitors.

We stayed at Dragon’s Nest Resort overnight which had great views of the Punakha Dzong.

Some people also head to Wangdue to see the Wangdue Dzong. The dzong is situated on a ridge overlooking the confluence of the Punakha and Wangdue rivers. Wangdue Phodrang serves as the administrative centre of the dzongkhag (district) and is about 20 kilometres (12 miles) from Punakha.

From Punakha, if you have more days, you can take a trip to Phobjikha, known for its vast U-shaped glacial valleys and as the winter habitat for black-necked cranes that migrate from Tibet. An overnight stay in Phobjikha is highly recommended to experience the area.

Day 3: Punakha to Paro

(131 kms; 5 hours)

We were going to spend the last two nights in Paro, so on day three, we were returning from Punakha to Paro.

On our journey from Punakha through Thimphu to Paro, we made a stop at Chimmi Lhakhang, also known as the Fertility Temple.

‘Chime Lhakhang’ or ‘The Crazy Monk Temple’, or the ‘Phallus Temple’

Welcome to the Crazy Temple!

Chime Lhakhang or the Crazy Monk Temple is dedicated to Lam Drukpa Kuenley (1455 to 1570), a Buddhist master who personified the essence of the Vajrayana tradition that is known as “Crazy Wisdom”. Devotees fondly call Lam Drukpa Kuenley the “Divine Madman”, because of his non-conventional and outrageous style of teaching. He deliberately portrayed the image of a vagabond and wandered around the countryside, indulging in song and dance, alcohol and women, hunting and feasting. Lam Drukpa Kuenley was a social critic who taunted the hypocrisy of the established orders, including the monastic order. Thus, the use of his phallus as a “flaming thunderbolt” weapon symbolises the discomfort that society experiences when facing the truth. The temple’s deity is known to bless couples with children. As expected, the woman needs to bear the burden to achieve this, by carrying a heavy five-century-old wooden phallus on her back and circumambulating the temple three times. No pictures were allowed, but I clicked some of the amusing graphics around.

On our way back, we passed Dochu La Pass again and enjoyed a delicious cappuccino at the rest-stop café. We then arrived in Paro and checked into the Shomo Chuki Resort.

Most hotels in Bhutan seemed to lack elevators, including Shomo Chuki. If needed, you can request a ground-floor room.

In Paro, you could also visit attractions like Drukgyel Dzong, Kyichu Lhakhang, Rinpung Dzong, and Ta Dzong, each offering a glimpse into Bhutan’s rich history and culture.

Day 4: Taktsang trek

On this day, we went on a full-day hike to (arguably) Bhutan’s most iconic site, Taktsang Monastery, also known as Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

Tiger’s Nest Monastery gets its name from one of the many legends about Padmasambhava—also known as Guru Rinpoche or the Second Buddha—who is said to have ‘flown’ to the site on the back of a tigress to meditate. The tigress was Yeshi Tshogyal, his main consort, who transformed herself to carry him to the monastery in the 8th century. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche took a wrathful form to vanquish the evil forces (i.e., non-believers) in the region. As a result, the idols in the temples have wrathful expressions, with orange flames dancing behind them.

You gotta love these legends!

The presence of wrathful deities, often depicted with fierce expressions and weapons, might seem contradictory in a religion known for its emphasis on compassion and non-violence. However, these deities serve a crucial role in Buddhist iconography and practice. They are considered manifestations of wisdom and compassion in their most active form. Their fierce appearance is a symbolic representation of the power needed to cut through ignorance and delusion. These deities are often depicted as protectors of the Dharma and believed to ward off evil forces and obstacles that hinder spiritual progress. The wrathful form can be seen as a metaphor for the transformation of negative emotions. It suggests that even the most destructive emotions can be channelled into positive energy and wisdom when properly understood and cultivated.

Yeshi Tshogyal, the consort, who transformed into a tigress and flew her husband to the hill, was an accomplished Buddhist monk herself and is often called the Mother of Tibetan Buddhism.

Paro Taktsang or the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is a sacred Vajrayana Himalayan Buddhist site located in the cliffside of the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. It is one of thirteen Tiger’s Nest caves in historical Tibet in which Padmasambhava practised and taught Vajrayana. It has nine temples inside, out of which 8 can be visited by tourists. The monastery nests atop a sheer cliff at 3,120 metres (10,240 ft) above sea level, about 900 metres (3,000 ft) above the Paro Valley.

The entry fee was 1,000 Nu per person for those who wanted to enter the monastery at the end of the hike. You can hike without entering the monastery, but I don’t see the point. I noticed some people walking up without guides, but you need a guide to enter the temple. In Bhutan, it is required for tourists to have a guide, although I found some were able to skirt this.

Walking sticks can be hired for 100 Nu, and horses are available to the midpoint for 1,300 Nu. We carried our sticks, which helped and we didn’t use horses. The ticket counter at the base was open from 6 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., and the temple was open from 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. in October. Tickets are checked only at the temple entrance, with purchase counters at both the base and the top. If you have hiked up without a guide, you can hire one from the ticket counter at the temple entrance.

How hard is the hike? I did the Tiger’s Nest Hike with my dad. I was psyched out about the hike after reading the cautionary reviews online, but it turned out to be an easy one. My 77-year-old, senior-citizen dad struggled in the beginning, as this was his first ever hike, but with gentle encouragement, he completed it in good time. The trek is a 6.4 km round trip and takes 4-5 hours to complete for those with average fitness.

The eight temples we visited were:

1. The Cave Temple where Padmasambhava meditated for three years, three months, three weeks, three days, and three hours. There is also a Tiger’s Nest Cave one can go down through to visit where Yeshi Tshogyal meditated (I think before she became a tigress and got him here, or some legend like that)
2. The Self-Spoken Statue Temple (when a statue of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) was being carried up the cliffs to be placed inside the monastery, the labourers struggled with the arduous climb. At some point, the statue is said to have miraculously spoken, telling them, “If you’re tired, put me down.”)
3. Kuenrey temple – the assembly hall for monks
4. Guru Dorji Droloed temple – honouring Guru Dorji Droloed, a manifestation of Guru Rinpoche
5. Eight Manifestation Temple – With the statues of Guru Rinpoche in eight different manifestations.
6. Amitayu or the Trinity of Longevity Temple 
7. God of Wealth’s Temple (Kuber)
8. Langchen Pelgye Singye Temple (he was one among 25 disciples of Guru Rinpoche)

During the trek, our guide, who does this a few times a month, moved with the ease of a mountain goat, whistling a local tune and reading about Gelephu Mindfulness City on his phone. The city sounded fascinating. It’s in southern Bhutan and is the world’s first meditation city. The king is promoting it globally, and a new airport has just opened there.

What to buy

Bhutan is by no means a cheap destination. Things were expensive to buy. A coffee cost 170-200 Nu in the city, meals were 500 Nu+ per head, and the wooden bowls they use and we loved were 600-1200 Nu each! Shawls were for 2000 Nu and above and T-shirts were 600-650 Nu. Hiring costumes for a photo shoot was 200 Nu. Bargaining was possible but minimally. Stores at the outskirts charged less. Paro Market was the best place to buy most things.

Some suggestions of what to buy in Bhutan

• Handwoven Textiles: Traditional Bhutanese fabrics, like the ‘kira’ and ‘gho’, are often crafted from silk and cotton, and can even be used as tablecloths or bedcovers. Our guide, Pema, pointed to the inner pocket of his ‘gho’, and called it the largest pocket in the world. He explained that the ‘gho’ is multipurpose and could even double as a sleeping bag. Let your imagination run wild on ways it can be used!
• Woven Bags: Most stores sell wool woven bags starting at 500 Nu, depending on the size. They make great gifts.
• Jewellery: Handmade silver and gold jewellery with intricate designs, often incorporating semi-precious stones.
• Handicrafts: Items like carved wooden bowls, masks, and bamboo products. They don’t come cheap though. Most are 1000 Nu+
• Thangka Paintings: Traditional Buddhist paintings on cotton or silk appliqué. Costs 5000 Nu+ depending on the size.
• Local Cosmetics: Natural and handmade soaps, lotions, and herbal beauty products.
• Prayer Flags and Prayer Wheels: Spiritual souvenirs often used in Buddhist practices.
• Books: The Paro Airport had a delightful collection of books that combined elements of Bhutanese culture with engaging stories, particularly for children. I recommend looking for books by Karma Tsering; though they’re written for children, adults will find them enjoyable too, and they will serve as good keepsakes.
• Alcohol: Bhutan offers a range of unique alcoholic beverages, with some of the most popular being K5 whiskey, Bhutan Grain Whiskey, Royal XXX Rum, and local Ara. K5, which stands for King 5, is claimed to be a Scotch whiskey but is made in Bhutan and is the most popular among locals. Ara is the national drink of Bhutan, a homemade liquor made from maize or barley. It is not commercially available and is typically offered on special occasions.

What to Eat

• Chugo or Chhurpi: In the top left corner of the picture above. These are chewable cheese cubes made from yak milk and can be soft or hard. The hard variety is particularly popular as a chewy snack that requires long chewing, gradually releasing its flavour. I found the hard version a bit ‘hard’ :), I enjoyed the soft ones instead, which cost 300 Nu for a string of 20.
• Suja: At the top right of the picture above is suja, a delicious butter tea. You might have encountered similar versions in Ladakh or Spiti. This traditional drink combines tea leaves, yak butter, and salt. Unlike typical tea, suja has a savoury, slightly creamy taste, and is believed to warm the body and provide energy while preventing dry skin. The picture also features a basket of muri (puffed rice). This combination is served as a starter, before the main meal.
• Zaow: At the centre of the picture above I am holding a zaow, resembling a giant panipuri and commonly found at Bhutanese roadside stalls. It’s light, crispy, and seasoned with salt or chilli powder for extra flavour.
• Ema Datshi: At the bottom left of the picture above is Bhutan’s national dish, ‘Ema Datshi’. This spicy stew features green or red chillies and cheese, reflecting Bhutan’s love for both ingredients. “Ema” means chilli, and “Datshi” means cheese. The chillies are typically cooked in a sauce made from yak’s milk cheese and served with red rice. There are several popular variations of Ema Datshi and at some point or other, we had all of these: Kewa Datshi: made with potatoes and cheese instead of chillies. Shamu Datshi: prepared with mushrooms and cheese. Sikam Ema Datshi: with dried pork (sikam) and chillies with cheese. Chogo Datshi: with dried cottage cheese for a different texture.
• Set Lunch: The bottom image on the picture above shows a set lunch we enjoyed at Heritage Home Babesa in Thimphu. It featured “Phaksha Paa” (pork with dried chillies and vegetables like radish or spinach) and “Chicken Maroo” (chicken cubes simmered with local spices, onions, tomatoes, and ginger-garlic paste). These hearty dishes were served with red rice, kewa datshi, pumpkin soup, and spicy local pickles.

Other Tips

People to Know

• Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava): Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, is revered as the “Second Buddha” in Bhutan and Tibet. He introduced Tantric Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century, subduing negative forces and establishing monasteries. His influence is central to Bhutanese religious identity. He is said to have come from India.
• Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal: Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal was a Tibetan lama who unified Bhutan in the 17th century, establishing a dual system of governance, combining spiritual and temporal leadership. Before that, Bhutan was a collection of clans at war with one another. Zhabdrung is considered the father of Bhutan and was the architect of many dzongs (fortresses), including the famous Punakha Dzong.
• Jigme Dorji Wangchuck: Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the third King of Bhutan, is known as the “Father of Modern Bhutan.” He reformed the country in the mid-20th century, introducing democratic processes, legal reforms, and international relations, including joining the United Nations.
• Current King (Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck): Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck is the current King of Bhutan, known as the “People’s King.” He ascended the throne in 2006 and focused on modernizing Bhutan while preserving its traditions, promoting Gross National Happiness, and improving living standards. The people of Bhutan are especially grateful to him for his support during the COVID pandemic, as he distributed money and rations to help prevent hardships.

Words to Know

Nearly every local speaks English, but if you’re like me and enjoy using a few local phrases to impress, here are some words to learn:

• Hello: Kuzuzangpo la (Kuzu Kuzu is used casually)
• Welcome: Joen pa Leg So
• Thank you: Kadrin Chey la
• No thank you: Me Zhu
• Good luck: Tashi Delek
• It is delicious: Zhimbay

‘La’ at the end of any sentence makes it formal.

Treks to Try

In addition to the Tiger’s Nest Trek, Bhutan offers several other treks for outdoor enthusiasts. The main ones include:

• Trans Bhutan Trail: a historic trek that spans approximately 400 kilometres across Bhutan. This trail connects the western town of Haa to the eastern town of Trashigang, passing through stunning landscapes, quaint villages, and sacred sites. The trail offers trekkers a chance to experience Bhutanese culture, interact with locals, and witness traditional architecture. The trek can take anywhere from 10 to 20 days, depending on the chosen itinerary, and it’s suitable for trekkers of various skill levels.
• Zuri Dzong Trek: a short, rewarding hike near Paro that offers stunning views of the Paro Valley and the iconic Paro Dzong. The trek typically takes about two to three hours to complete, making it accessible for both beginners and experienced hikers. Along the way, trekkers can explore the ruins of Zuri Dzong, which dates back to the 17th century, and enjoy stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
• Snowman Trek: The Snowman Trek is often regarded as one of the toughest treks in the world, taking approximately 21 days to complete. This challenging trail traverses high-altitude mountain passes, reaching elevations of over 5,000 meters. The trek offers breathtaking views of the Himalayas, including the majestic Gangkar Puensum is an unscaled peak, as the Bhutanese government has prohibited climbing it due to its sacred status.
• Jomolhari Trek: a popular and scenic trek that takes you to the base of Mount Jomolhari, Bhutan’s second-highest peak. Spanning about 8 to 11 days, this journey showcases stunning mountain views, lush valleys, and pristine rivers.

Experiences to Try

• A Hot Stone Massage: The traditional Hot Stone Bhutanese Massage includes a bath that uses heated river stones to relieve deep-set aches and pains. River rocks are heated until they are intensely hot, then placed in water, causing the rocks to crack and release steam. This process infuses the water with key minerals believed to alleviate discomfort and provide broader medicinal benefits. The bath water is also infused with local herbs for added therapeutic effects. I could only manage 45 minutes and three rounds of heated stones before giving up, as it made my heart race and my blood pressure drop. However, I felt relaxed afterwards, especially after enjoying a delicious drink of homemade ara liquor. Ara is Bhutan’s national drink, a homemade liquor made from maize or barley that is not commercially available and is typically served on special occasions.
• Stop to Watch a Dart Game: We were lucky to watch a game of Khuru, a popular Bhutanese sport played mostly by men during holidays and weekends. It was full of energy and seemed like a lot of fun. The game involves throwing darts outdoors at a target 15–20 meters away. Each team usually has 8 to 10 players, all young men, who take turns throwing the wooden darts, about 20 cm long. The court is double-ended, so after each round, both teams switch sides, tally the points, and retrieve their darts. When a round ends, players celebrate with a song. The silk kerchiefs on their waists represent points earned. If you spot a lot of cars parked in a non-touristy area, there’s likely a game happening nearby.
• You may also be able to watch an Archery Game. Archery is the national sport of Bhutan and holds significant cultural importance. In many towns and villages, you can find makeshift archery ranges set up along the roads. These events are not just competitive but also serve as social gatherings where locals come together to cheer and celebrate.
• Eat at a Local Place: If you are a tourist, especially an Indian traveller, your guide will take you to places that serve familiar food. If you want to try local cuisine, ask your guide to take you to a restaurant that specializes in traditional dishes. We went to Heritage Home Babesa in Thimphu, which was great. A set meal costs about 700 Nu per head.

Movies to Watch

I was recommended two recent, acclaimed local movies, both by Pawo Choyning Dorji.

• The Monk and the Gun is a 2023 drama, selected as the Bhutanese entry for the Best International Feature Film at the 96th Academy Awards and was one of the 15 finalist films in the December shortlist.
• Lunana: Yak in the Classroom, released in 2016, follows the life of a young boy who brings a yak to school to help his community. The film emphasizes the importance of education, cultural heritage, and environmental conservation in Bhutan.

National Symbols

List of Festivals

City Distances